Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
From the boulders climb the tricky slab to the left twin cave - tough (E1 5b?) in all but perfect conditions and often avoided by a traverse in. Move right and climb the rib between the caves and the shallow groove above on good flat holds - thrilling stuff. © Rockfax

FA. Alf Bridge 1932.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Forgotten Art , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Blake 12 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Either E1 5A or E2 5B? Definite nasty injury potential with 5B moves is boiler plate E2 to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Either E1 5A or E2 5B? Definite nasty injury potential with 5B moves is boiler plate E2 to me.
Jon Stewart 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I seem to be the only person who thinks this is a total sandbag at hvs. I thought that the unprotected slab was hard (5b) and that the gear on the upper section was a git to place - the hardest route I've done in a while (and that includes some E2s!).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I seem to be the only person who thinks this is a total sandbag at hvs. I thought that the unprotected slab was hard (5b) and that the gear on the upper section was a git to place - the hardest route I've done in a while (and that includes some E2s!).
Duncan I 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Wny miss out the slab? It's a route of two halves, each one being technical and bold. Delicate friction work on the lower slab, and powerful but positive edge-pulling on the upper half. Worth a couple of stars. You get a great view of HSD as well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wny miss out the slab? It's a route of two halves, each one being technical and bold. Delicate friction work on the lower slab, and powerful but positive edge-pulling on the upper half. Worth a couple of stars. You get a great view of HSD as well.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eye of faith (left hand start)

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)

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