Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
The polished boot-wide crack that splits the centre of the short wall is an awkward little customer. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , WideBoyz Crack School , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lurkio 4 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a lovely little route. Definitely worth a star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a lovely little route. Definitely worth a star.
nate 17 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: have soloed up and down it a bunch but feels harder than VD for some reason? My friend's first lead, she thought it was nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: have soloed up and down it a bunch but feels harder than VD for some reason? My friend's first lead, she thought it was nice.
Jon Greengrass 8 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dear Nick & Epic Ed, Learn to jam and you'll find this an easy solo Jon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dear Nick & Epic Ed, Learn to jam and you'll find this an easy solo Jon
epic ed 6 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Nick's comments above! Don't use this as a short cut up to the top. It means hob-nail boot not rock boot width!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Nick's comments above! Don't use this as a short cut up to the top. It means hob-nail boot not rock boot width!

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heather Wall

Grade: HVD 3b ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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