Rockfax Description
A great classic. Trend left to a wide crack then up to a ledge. Move left to an awkward flying-flake finish on the airy arete. © Rockfax
FA. Lewis Coxon 1922.
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Stanage Green Spot Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 25 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: A tough little one for a severe leader. 4b for the top, no doubt, though micronav reveals various options. Having doubles of some large-ish gear may be helpful. Varied and interesting climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A tough little one for a severe leader. 4b for the top, no doubt, though micronav reveals various options. Having doubles of some large-ish gear may be helpful. Varied and interesting climbing. |
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| Sue Hasel | 22 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found to flake move very hard, I’m very small and just couldn’t get access any holds on the left for ages. Much hollering and swearing and sobbing! Eventually made it. Recently did Dream of White horse which felt like a walk in the park compared to that top section! Felt extremely hard for the grade. Burly. Needs large cams to protect the middle vertical crack. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Found to flake move very hard, I’m very small and just couldn’t get access any holds on the left for ages. Much hollering and swearing and sobbing! Eventually made it. Recently did Dream of White horse which felt like a walk in the park compared to that top section! Felt extremely hard for the grade. Burly. Needs large cams to protect the middle vertical crack. |
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| scottywakefield | 16 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: A route with varied climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A route with varied climbing. |
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| Pythonist | 4 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it! |
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| Skyfall | 6 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it. |
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| Duz Walker | 2 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike? |
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| Jono Graham | 25 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought. |
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| Nutkey | 12 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 14 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Bishop's Route
Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)