Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A great classic. Trend left to a wide crack then up to a ledge. Move left to an awkward flying-flake finish on the airy arete. © Rockfax

FA. Lewis Coxon 1922.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , 50 of the Best , 50 Stars in 20 Routes at Stanage Popular , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Stanage Popular Greens , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Beginner Peak Severe , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Severe Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
C Witter 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: A tough little one for a severe leader. 4b for the top, no doubt, though micronav reveals various options. Having doubles of some large-ish gear may be helpful. Varied and interesting climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tough little one for a severe leader. 4b for the top, no doubt, though micronav reveals various options. Having doubles of some large-ish gear may be helpful. Varied and interesting climbing.
Sue Hasel 22 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Found to flake move very hard, I’m very small and just couldn’t get access any holds on the left for ages. Much hollering and swearing and sobbing! Eventually made it. Recently did Dream of White horse which felt like a walk in the park compared to that top section! Felt extremely hard for the grade. Burly. Needs large cams to protect the middle vertical crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found to flake move very hard, I’m very small and just couldn’t get access any holds on the left for ages. Much hollering and swearing and sobbing! Eventually made it. Recently did Dream of White horse which felt like a walk in the park compared to that top section! Felt extremely hard for the grade. Burly. Needs large cams to protect the middle vertical crack.
scottywakefield 16 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A route with varied climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A route with varied climbing.
Pythonist 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A beautiful S solo, with an adrenalising finale. Might just be 4b, but don't care either way, just do it!
Skyfall 6 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seemed quite hard at Severe overall but I didn't find using the top flake at all hard. Not technical enough for HS (given good pro all the way). Very nice route though, quite meandering and with a traditional (ie. easiest way up the buttress) feel to it.
Duz Walker 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hmm, lovely route. I think the "4bness" of the last move is proportional to the strength of the wind and the size of the capacious ledge you are about to leave. The guidebooks all say finish via flake - do they mean that rounded horizontal dinner plate that I thought very unflakelike?
Jono Graham 25 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The last moves feel about 4a I thought.
Nutkey 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't remember the start being that tricky, but it certainly felt hard for S4a in both respects.
Simon Caldwell 14 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I still think the final moves are hard and exposed enough (though well protected) to warrant S 4b.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 303
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 275
Votes cast 278
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Long Climb

Grade: S 4a ***
(Laddow)

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