Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the centre of the lower slab and the bulge above on pockets. The final rib is the real challenge of the route with remote runners as well as scary, reachy climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1991.

Ticklists

Stanage Slab

Feedback

User Date Notes
high peak 1 21 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very steady climbing. Got to the last 3 metres then bottled it as not used a side runner. Went up left of rib using big pocket. Just too scaredy cats. Another day...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very steady climbing. Got to the last 3 metres then bottled it as not used a side runner. Went up left of rib using big pocket. Just too scaredy cats. Another day...
Ropeboy 12 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Thought this would be an eliminate but was pleasantly surprised. A good line. The final main rib definitely being the crux, a bit thin and balancy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought this would be an eliminate but was pleasantly surprised. A good line. The final main rib definitely being the crux, a bit thin and balancy.

Logged Ascents

107 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 15
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Nutcracker

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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