Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
The sit-start to Roy's Problem. With the sidewall it is a different and much easier f6B+. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Sit-start to Roy's Problem a steep prow located just up the hill from Brass Monkeys.

FA. Ned Feehally.

Ticklists

The peak shortlist , Peak District Gritstone 8's , Punters Wannabee

Feedback

User Date Notes
Carlos Montero 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Adding to the confusion, anyone know if this is a sit or a stand or what? Seems like most people just crouch it?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Adding to the confusion, anyone know if this is a sit or a stand or what? Seems like most people just crouch it?
BillyRidal 26 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Little confused about the above comment about the starting hold, that seemed fine, but maybe the foot hold just below it has crumbled as I couldn’t see how anyone would heel hook on it in its current condition.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Little confused about the above comment about the starting hold, that seemed fine, but maybe the foot hold just below it has crumbled as I couldn’t see how anyone would heel hook on it in its current condition.
JohnLikesRoks 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Starting hold broke pulling on despite being in good conditions. Have kept the pieces and will find someone with more gluing experience than me to repair
Show beta
βeta: Starting hold broke pulling on despite being in good conditions. Have kept the pieces and will find someone with more gluing experience than me to repair
Orrin Coley 4 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Seems this is one of those illusive boulders that might be harder for the taller folk.
Show beta
βeta: Seems this is one of those illusive boulders that might be harder for the taller folk.

Logged Ascents

6 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bury My Heart

Grade: f8A ***
(Dovedale)

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