Rockfax Description
Excellent stuff. Starting from left or right, climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to the top. A well protected and a popular climb for pushing the grade and honing the jamming. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stan , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , York University Students path to greatness , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EA_Mountain_Skills | 8 Feb |
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βeta: Quality. Early gear is a good idea. Plenty of cam placements available. | ||
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βeta: Quality. Early gear is a good idea. Plenty of cam placements available. |
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| PaulJepson | 2 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: The block which you monkey on to get over to the twin cracks is loose. Get some early gear in! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The block which you monkey on to get over to the twin cracks is loose. Get some early gear in! |
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| Diverrobster | 29 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: In 1997 When I climbed this it was graded VS 4c | βeta? | |
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βeta: In 1997 When I climbed this it was graded VS 4c |
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| JohnHutch | 26 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT) |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way |
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| Lizard | 27 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing. |
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| leon | 9 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: not that hard but so what, its fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: not that hard but so what, its fun |
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| The old James turnbull | 8 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun | βeta? | |
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βeta: probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun |
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| shaun walby | 28 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b. |
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| Dale Berry | 8 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise. |
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| gav p | 15 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 16 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS. |
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| EarlyBird | 31 Mar, 2002 |
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βeta: Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird. |
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| VisionSet | 2 Jan, 2002 |
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βeta: For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit. Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit. Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Brown's Crack
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)