Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack in the left-hand side-wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
mountainremedy 7 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Miles harder than Amazon Crack and Mutiny Crack at Burbage! Harder than a lot of VS 4cs in the peak.
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βeta: Miles harder than Amazon Crack and Mutiny Crack at Burbage! Harder than a lot of VS 4cs in the peak.
JHiley 27 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: HS 4b is fine. Nowhere near as hard as Amazon crack or Mutiny crack at Burbage.
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βeta: HS 4b is fine. Nowhere near as hard as Amazon crack or Mutiny crack at Burbage.
Fidget 26 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out!
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βeta: Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out!
John Parkin 25 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin
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βeta: Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in.
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βeta: What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in.
Nutkey 9 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off.
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βeta: Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off.
Simon Caldwell 17 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it!
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βeta: Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it!
Toby Dunn 1 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: blatantly VS, and not an easy one either.
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βeta: blatantly VS, and not an easy one either.
Crammy 24 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status.
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βeta: Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status.
Dan_S 15 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route! Flipping hard!
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βeta: New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route! Flipping hard!
Nick Smith - Climbers 14 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!)
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βeta: Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!)
helix 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: surely this is harder than HS 4b. as i bumped into Mr Craggs half an hour after doing it, i told him as much!
βeta?
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βeta: surely this is harder than HS 4b. as i bumped into Mr Craggs half an hour after doing it, i told him as much!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 75
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Snakes Alive

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)

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