Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
The steep left side of the arete from a sitting start which may require a pad or two for the short.
Hippocampus Original, f7C - From sitting with feet on the low right ramp, climb the right side of the arete, with help from the arete as needed and a 'campus' for the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The line as generally climbed now goes up the steep arete from a sit start

Ticklists

Compression heaven! , Peak district Bouldering Super strength 7C - 8A , Scrittle and CHoss , To do list , Changing James's pyramid

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Wheel Thing 14 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very hard for the short. I had to do a massive swing to get the toe hook in, plus the last bump move was too spanny to do with the toe hook. There may be a possible way but it would be bloody hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very hard for the short. I had to do a massive swing to get the toe hook in, plus the last bump move was too spanny to do with the toe hook. There may be a possible way but it would be bloody hard.

Logged Ascents

82 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 71 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eastwood Reverse

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Eastwood Rocks)

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