UKH

16m.

Rockfax Description
The wide black rift is oddly alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the rift. Either squeeze through the rat-hole that gripped Helfenstein, or do the Outside Exit at an exposed S 4a. © Rockfax

FA. Helfenstein - well almost. c1910.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Through Routes!, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Stanage Chimney Tour, Type 2 Fun, CUMC Ticklist, Stanage 'Difficults', The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, Memorable Climbs, Stanage Solo, Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes, Level 1 Peak Trad Routes, Stanage green spot starters

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User Date Notes
cragtyke 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: outside finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: outside finish
Sean Kelly 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: After much futile huffing & puffing, grapple & wrestle, swearing & gasping, battle & bash, scrapping and fighting, scuffling & tussle, screaming & shouting, in a vain hopeless wasted exertion that I utterly failed to negotiate an exit via squeezing through the vice-like crevice. So finally in desperation I resorted to the much easier outside finish at only S 4a. No small wonder Helfenstein gave up climbing immediately afterwards!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After much futile huffing & puffing, grapple & wrestle, swearing & gasping, battle & bash, scrapping and fighting, scuffling & tussle, screaming & shouting, in a vain hopeless wasted exertion that I utterly failed to negotiate an exit via squeezing through the vice-like crevice. So finally in desperation I resorted to the much easier outside finish at only S 4a. No small wonder Helfenstein gave up climbing immediately afterwards!
Si dH 28 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Utterly ungradeable. I tried it on a very wet day and it probably actually helped by making it more slippy. The rotue is a basically a mod with an exit that you can only do if youre thin, I would say HVD is a good grade for it, and needless to say I failed!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Utterly ungradeable. I tried it on a very wet day and it probably actually helped by making it more slippy. The rotue is a basically a mod with an exit that you can only do if youre thin, I would say HVD is a good grade for it, and needless to say I failed!
Fidget 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The chimney part was like a slimey river when I led this today, but it didn't matter as it's all about the last move. Just about managed to squeeze through with a lot of puffing and panting! Highly amusing, the the more you try and push with your feet, the more you get stuck. I tried it facing left, and by the time I realised I should have faced right it was too late to turn round!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The chimney part was like a slimey river when I led this today, but it didn't matter as it's all about the last move. Just about managed to squeeze through with a lot of puffing and panting! Highly amusing, the the more you try and push with your feet, the more you get stuck. I tried it facing left, and by the time I realised I should have faced right it was too late to turn round!
Simon Caldwell 18 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure how you can grade this at all, let alone give it a technical grade. (The through route that is, the outside version is a different route and should have a different name). How about borrowing from the Yorkshire Grit guide and grading it 'Decidedly Difficult'.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure how you can grade this at all, let alone give it a technical grade. (The through route that is, the outside version is a different route and should have a different name). How about borrowing from the Yorkshire Grit guide and grading it 'Decidedly Difficult'.
Dan_S 29 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The funniest route on grit I've found. Only the thin should risk the hole exit!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The funniest route on grit I've found. Only the thin should risk the hole exit!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 50
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cracker Jack

Grade: HVD ***
(Wildcat)
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