Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The wide black rift is oddly alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the rift. Either squeeze through the rat-hole that gripped Helfenstein, or do the Outside Exit at an exposed S 4a. © Rockfax
FA. Helfenstein - well almost. c1910.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Through Routes! , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Chimney Tour , Type 2 Fun , CUMC Ticklist , Stanage 'Difficults' , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Memorable Climbs , Stanage Solo , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Stupid Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cragtyke | 20 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: outside finish | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: outside finish |
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| Sean Kelly | 23 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: After much futile huffing & puffing, grapple & wrestle, swearing & gasping, battle & bash, scrapping and fighting, scuffling & tussle, screaming & shouting, in a vain hopeless wasted exertion that I utterly failed to negotiate an exit via squeezing through the vice-like crevice. So finally in desperation I resorted to the much easier outside finish at only S 4a. No small wonder Helfenstein gave up climbing immediately afterwards! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: After much futile huffing & puffing, grapple & wrestle, swearing & gasping, battle & bash, scrapping and fighting, scuffling & tussle, screaming & shouting, in a vain hopeless wasted exertion that I utterly failed to negotiate an exit via squeezing through the vice-like crevice. So finally in desperation I resorted to the much easier outside finish at only S 4a. No small wonder Helfenstein gave up climbing immediately afterwards! |
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| Si dH | 28 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Utterly ungradeable. I tried it on a very wet day and it probably actually helped by making it more slippy. The rotue is a basically a mod with an exit that you can only do if youre thin, I would say HVD is a good grade for it, and needless to say I failed! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Utterly ungradeable. I tried it on a very wet day and it probably actually helped by making it more slippy. The rotue is a basically a mod with an exit that you can only do if youre thin, I would say HVD is a good grade for it, and needless to say I failed! |
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| Fidget | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The chimney part was like a slimey river when I led this today, but it didn't matter as it's all about the last move. Just about managed to squeeze through with a lot of puffing and panting! Highly amusing, the the more you try and push with your feet, the more you get stuck. I tried it facing left, and by the time I realised I should have faced right it was too late to turn round! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The chimney part was like a slimey river when I led this today, but it didn't matter as it's all about the last move. Just about managed to squeeze through with a lot of puffing and panting! Highly amusing, the the more you try and push with your feet, the more you get stuck. I tried it facing left, and by the time I realised I should have faced right it was too late to turn round! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 18 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure how you can grade this at all, let alone give it a technical grade. (The through route that is, the outside version is a different route and should have a different name). How about borrowing from the Yorkshire Grit guide and grading it 'Decidedly Difficult'. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure how you can grade this at all, let alone give it a technical grade. (The through route that is, the outside version is a different route and should have a different name). How about borrowing from the Yorkshire Grit guide and grading it 'Decidedly Difficult'. |
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| Dan_S | 29 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The funniest route on grit I've found. Only the thin should risk the hole exit! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The funniest route on grit I've found. Only the thin should risk the hole exit! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Central Buttress
Grade: HVD 3c ***
(Black Rocks)