Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
The long crack that is the major feature of the buttress proves to be an awkward customer and quite high in the grade. A slippery layback or awkward jamming start leads to a tricky wide section off the ledge and another wide section to enter the upper crack. Escape out left at the top or move right for the extended reach of the short direct finish, HVS 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , 3 Star Stanage , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Stan , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Proper Cracks UK , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 2023 , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simas87 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: The first crack is a nothing short of beautiful jamming with varying techniques! I only wish the first section continued for another 30m! If jamming is not your thing, then this route is not worth your time, energy, blood, sweat, tears, broken dreams...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first crack is a nothing short of beautiful jamming with varying techniques! I only wish the first section continued for another 30m! If jamming is not your thing, then this route is not worth your time, energy, blood, sweat, tears, broken dreams...
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute struggle-fest in the full sun. Just did left unconquerable the route before - felt far closer to falling off this!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolute struggle-fest in the full sun. Just did left unconquerable the route before - felt far closer to falling off this!
EdwardC16 26 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Jammed the whole route. Very tiring. Definitely upper end of VS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Jammed the whole route. Very tiring. Definitely upper end of VS
Summit Sense 12 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place
martinfindlay 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I found this far harder than any of the hvs' I did this weekend. Make sure you've got a good jamming technique!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found this far harder than any of the hvs' I did this weekend. Make sure you've got a good jamming technique!
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Technically tough, but never HVS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Technically tough, but never HVS
Fidget 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I had some fun on this today! I've been stuck in a bit of an HS rut for months, but after this (and a VS slab afterwards for contrast) I think I can now say with confidence that I can lead VS! For the top moves where you transfer from the crack to the scoop, I don't recommend inserting your leg in the break - it doesn't help get into balance for the fairly delicate step up! Was quite pleased to find a bit of jamming useful on this route, especially for the first move to reach the top of the layback.
Show beta
βeta: I had some fun on this today! I've been stuck in a bit of an HS rut for months, but after this (and a VS slab afterwards for contrast) I think I can now say with confidence that I can lead VS! For the top moves where you transfer from the crack to the scoop, I don't recommend inserting your leg in the break - it doesn't help get into balance for the fairly delicate step up! Was quite pleased to find a bit of jamming useful on this route, especially for the first move to reach the top of the layback.
Lizard 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A real gritstone struggle but split by excellent rest ledges to let you catch your breath. Layback start was technical crux for me. Protection is perfect all the way (despite what you might think from the ground) and you can get you whole arm/leg/head in the wider upper sections. Thrutch and jam heaven! "Go for it" attitude will help.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A real gritstone struggle but split by excellent rest ledges to let you catch your breath. Layback start was technical crux for me. Protection is perfect all the way (despite what you might think from the ground) and you can get you whole arm/leg/head in the wider upper sections. Thrutch and jam heaven! "Go for it" attitude will help.
sandy 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well I've certainly done easier HVS routes! I found the move to get back into the crack after the initial layback particularly tricky (being short) and the protection for that move poor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well I've certainly done easier HVS routes! I found the move to get back into the crack after the initial layback particularly tricky (being short) and the protection for that move poor.
MartinWalker 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Difficult start. Layback committing as it then seems to go on and on. Tried jamming, just couldn't do it. Layback was fun, but only once I was standing on the ledge reattaching my wrists. Rest of climb is then fantastic, especially once the crack is gained again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Difficult start. Layback committing as it then seems to go on and on. Tried jamming, just couldn't do it. Layback was fun, but only once I was standing on the ledge reattaching my wrists. Rest of climb is then fantastic, especially once the crack is gained again.
The old James turnbull 8 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: really enjoyed the start, unprotected lay back made loads of fun untill the stance, tricky but added to the fun. all of the route was outstanding, the move left near the top was quick precreoius. loved the inner hold within the crack at half height. Brillent!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: really enjoyed the start, unprotected lay back made loads of fun untill the stance, tricky but added to the fun. all of the route was outstanding, the move left near the top was quick precreoius. loved the inner hold within the crack at half height. Brillent!!
shaun walby 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great route right to be among the top of VS 4c , didn't find the opening crack that bad (layback)gaining the final crack towards the top was the crux for me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route right to be among the top of VS 4c , didn't find the opening crack that bad (layback)gaining the final crack towards the top was the crux for me.
EarlyBird 15 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: start seemed to be a straightforward lay back to me...entry into the crack following that seemed far trickier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: start seemed to be a straightforward lay back to me...entry into the crack following that seemed far trickier.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 236
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 223
Votes cast 205
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lean Man's Climb

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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