UKH

16m.

Rockfax Description
The long crack that is the major feature of the buttress proves to be an awkward customer and quite high in the grade. A slippery layback or awkward jamming start (5a?) leads to a tricky wide section off the ledge and another wide section to enter the upper crack. Escape out left at the top or move right for the extended reach of the short Direct Finish, HVS 5a. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, 3 Star Stanage, To Goliath's Groove and beyond, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Plantation, Stan, The Gritlist, Proper Cracks UK, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1, To do, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
martinfindlay 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I found this far harder than any of the hvs' I did this weekend. Make sure you've got a good jamming technique!
βeta?
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βeta: I found this far harder than any of the hvs' I did this weekend. Make sure you've got a good jamming technique!
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Technically tough, but never HVS
βeta?
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βeta: Technically tough, but never HVS
Fidget 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I had some fun on this today! I've been stuck in a bit of an HS rut for months, but after this (and a VS slab afterwards for contrast) I think I can now say with confidence that I can lead VS! For the top moves where you transfer from the crack to the scoop, I don't recommend inserting your leg in the break - it doesn't help get into balance for the fairly delicate step up! Was quite pleased to find a bit of jamming useful on this route, especially for the first move to reach the top of the layback.
 
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βeta: I had some fun on this today! I've been stuck in a bit of an HS rut for months, but after this (and a VS slab afterwards for contrast) I think I can now say with confidence that I can lead VS! For the top moves where you transfer from the crack to the scoop, I don't recommend inserting your leg in the break - it doesn't help get into balance for the fairly delicate step up! Was quite pleased to find a bit of jamming useful on this route, especially for the first move to reach the top of the layback.
Lizard 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A real gritstone struggle but split by excellent rest ledges to let you catch your breath. Layback start was technical crux for me. Protection is perfect all the way (despite what you might think from the ground) and you can get you whole arm/leg/head in the wider upper sections. Thrutch and jam heaven! "Go for it" attitude will help.
βeta?
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βeta: A real gritstone struggle but split by excellent rest ledges to let you catch your breath. Layback start was technical crux for me. Protection is perfect all the way (despite what you might think from the ground) and you can get you whole arm/leg/head in the wider upper sections. Thrutch and jam heaven! "Go for it" attitude will help.
sandy 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well I've certainly done easier HVS routes! I found the move to get back into the crack after the initial layback particularly tricky (being short) and the protection for that move poor.
βeta?
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βeta: Well I've certainly done easier HVS routes! I found the move to get back into the crack after the initial layback particularly tricky (being short) and the protection for that move poor.
MartinWalker 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Difficult start. Layback committing as it then seems to go on and on. Tried jamming, just couldn't do it. Layback was fun, but only once I was standing on the ledge reattaching my wrists. Rest of climb is then fantastic, especially once the crack is gained again.
βeta?
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βeta: Difficult start. Layback committing as it then seems to go on and on. Tried jamming, just couldn't do it. Layback was fun, but only once I was standing on the ledge reattaching my wrists. Rest of climb is then fantastic, especially once the crack is gained again.
The old James turnbull 8 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: really enjoyed the start, unprotected lay back made loads of fun untill the stance, tricky but added to the fun. all of the route was outstanding, the move left near the top was quick precreoius. loved the inner hold within the crack at half height. Brillent!!
βeta?
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βeta: really enjoyed the start, unprotected lay back made loads of fun untill the stance, tricky but added to the fun. all of the route was outstanding, the move left near the top was quick precreoius. loved the inner hold within the crack at half height. Brillent!!
shaun walby 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great route right to be among the top of VS 4c , didn't find the opening crack that bad (layback)gaining the final crack towards the top was the crux for me.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route right to be among the top of VS 4c , didn't find the opening crack that bad (layback)gaining the final crack towards the top was the crux for me.
EarlyBird 15 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: start seemed to be a straightforward lay back to me...entry into the crack following that seemed far trickier.
βeta?
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βeta: start seemed to be a straightforward lay back to me...entry into the crack following that seemed far trickier.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 204
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 196
Votes cast 179
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Mermaid's Ridge

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Downfall)
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