Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The curving fissure splitting the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section provides the crux (not much gear) and is best tackled on your back! © Rockfax
Ticklists
Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Stanage Severes (UKC) , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| althesin | 15 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Woke up a bit sore, morning after a tussle with this one. Turns out I have a # R 8th rib. Was it worth it? Dunno, it was all a bit of a blur really. I do remember lying on my back at the top feeling relieved that it was all over. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Woke up a bit sore, morning after a tussle with this one. Turns out I have a # R 8th rib. Was it worth it? Dunno, it was all a bit of a blur really. I do remember lying on my back at the top feeling relieved that it was all over. |
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| Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Puzzling, but the absurd crawling bit is a giggle, as the earlier comment says. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Puzzling, but the absurd crawling bit is a giggle, as the earlier comment says. |
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| Si dH | 15 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: ying dow nis definitely not the way to do it IMO, I nearly fell out seconding it! Would have been much easier just to stand up and walk up the slab, but I wanted to practice some "treaditional" techniques - notably humping the rock and grunting and laughing and slipping downwards all at once. Never vdiff, as James Mcn says, bold for the first 5-6 metres. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: ying dow nis definitely not the way to do it IMO, I nearly fell out seconding it! Would have been much easier just to stand up and walk up the slab, but I wanted to practice some "treaditional" techniques - notably humping the rock and grunting and laughing and slipping downwards all at once. Never vdiff, as James Mcn says, bold for the first 5-6 metres. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 16 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: A must do route if you like that sort of thing (and most people don\'t!) Only given VDiff in previous guides - I wouldn\'t have solo\'d it if it had been down as HS 4c! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A must do route if you like that sort of thing (and most people don't!) Only given VDiff in previous guides - I wouldn't have solo'd it if it had been down as HS 4c! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Long Climb
Grade: S 4a ***
(Laddow)