Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Take the zig-zag crack to the awkward final section. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Wide Cracks , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JohnHutch | 26 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seemed like a sandbag at HS 4b, but maybe it's time I learned to knee jam! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seemed like a sandbag at HS 4b, but maybe it's time I learned to knee jam! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 31 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: line in the guide shows this starting up the right hand crack, I went up left surmounted the ledge and tried to find a piece of gear above foot level, friend 4 was way to small, big bro no.1 too small, if you step up on the foothold on the left side of the crack you can place a good sideways nut and a friend 1 to protect the awkward climbing up the offwidth section. Reccomend tweed trousers and knee jams :o) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: line in the guide shows this starting up the right hand crack, I went up left surmounted the ledge and tried to find a piece of gear above foot level, friend 4 was way to small, big bro no.1 too small, if you step up on the foothold on the left side of the crack you can place a good sideways nut and a friend 1 to protect the awkward climbing up the offwidth section. Reccomend tweed trousers and knee jams :o) |
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| Garan | 29 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Whatever people say, large gear and a degree of caution should be exercised on this route. Old school Hard Severe easy with big boots and a woolley jumper. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Whatever people say, large gear and a degree of caution should be exercised on this route. Old school Hard Severe easy with big boots and a woolley jumper. |
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| nate | 18 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: think HS is correct, was not heaps of fun to solo just akward | βeta? | |
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βeta: think HS is correct, was not heaps of fun to solo just akward |
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| stonewall | 19 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: hard for hs; by comparing this with the vs next to it (5a in Rockfax guide) this should be 4c not 4b, not least for the move getting established in the second vertical crack. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: hard for hs; by comparing this with the vs next to it (5a in Rockfax guide) this should be 4c not 4b, not least for the move getting established in the second vertical crack. |
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| LakesWinter | 10 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Um, I did it when I was climbing V Diff/Severe, and that's what it felt like, a bit awkward in a V Diff kind of way | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Um, I did it when I was climbing V Diff/Severe, and that's what it felt like, a bit awkward in a V Diff kind of way |
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| LakesWinter | 18 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is Vdiff in my stanage topo guide, and it felt like it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is Vdiff in my stanage topo guide, and it felt like it! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Three Tree Climb
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lawrencefield)