Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Follow the square groove just left of the arete to half-height then step left around the arete and climb a curving crack to a sloping ledge. Finish up rounded rock above. © Rockfax
FA. Al Parker 1959.
Ticklists
Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Capricorn One | 3 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Leaving the ledge above the nose on to the rounded top section is tricky for the short (5\'2\"). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Leaving the ledge above the nose on to the rounded top section is tricky for the short (5'2"). |
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| JB Vendeville | 24 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: First bit was pleasant and not as hard as I made it in my mind. getting over the flake though was too much for me...maybe at 5 feet 6 the good hold eluded me. I escaped on the right in the corner. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First bit was pleasant and not as hard as I made it in my mind. getting over the flake though was too much for me...maybe at 5 feet 6 the good hold eluded me. I escaped on the right in the corner. |
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| GermanAlex | 29 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very reach dependent, there is a crucial (very good) hold which would make the difference between 4c-ish or significantly harder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very reach dependent, there is a crucial (very good) hold which would make the difference between 4c-ish or significantly harder. |
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| Max factor | 8 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good varied route, worthy of more than its one star i think. The move off the midheight ledge is one that i found harder to contemplate than execute- it looks unlikely but does go at 4b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good varied route, worthy of more than its one star i think. The move off the midheight ledge is one that i found harder to contemplate than execute- it looks unlikely but does go at 4b. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing around the arete and up the curving crack. Move off the ledge up the overhang is perhaps 4c, especially for the short. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely climbing around the arete and up the curving crack. Move off the ledge up the overhang is perhaps 4c, especially for the short. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Nelson's Nemesis
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Birchen Edge)