14m.

Rockfax Description
A superb roof climb; high in the grade. Climb a shallow groove to below the roof. Place solid runners then head out via good flakes to the lip. Getting established round the lip is the crux.
Linking this with the Right-hand is Quietus Middle Leg, E3 6a. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 50 of the Best , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , 2019 Targets , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , SUMC's Steep Testpieces , Peaks hard stuff , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Dunc's ticklist , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Original and best stanage extremes , Fav Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Followed Joey up. Absolutely mad. Felt ok until trying to pull out of the roof. Mad. Way beyond me. Massive respect to anyone who ticks this!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Followed Joey up. Absolutely mad. Felt ok until trying to pull out of the roof. Mad. Way beyond me. Massive respect to anyone who ticks this!
keepguessing 8 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A little grovelly but I thought fairly straight forward compared to jeepers creepers. really thin crack, definitely easier for those with tiny hands, a bit grovelly getting over the lip proper but still quality old school climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A little grovelly but I thought fairly straight forward compared to jeepers creepers. really thin crack, definitely easier for those with tiny hands, a bit grovelly getting over the lip proper but still quality old school climbing.
Al Evans 11 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Never managed it clean without a rest, deffo 6a for me. Loads of 6a's I find easier than this. I wouldnt mind E1 6a though.
Show beta
βeta: Never managed it clean without a rest, deffo 6a for me. Loads of 6a's I find easier than this. I wouldnt mind E1 6a though.
shane ohly 11 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easier than i expected having put off trying it for far to long! Don't use the left crack though, just two simple hand jams on the right crack will take you to the top!
Show beta
βeta: Easier than i expected having put off trying it for far to long! Don't use the left crack though, just two simple hand jams on the right crack will take you to the top!
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected, but desperately hard work to unlock the sequence from the lip of the overhang. Full marks to anyone who onsights this classic (I didn't!)
Show beta
βeta: Well protected, but desperately hard work to unlock the sequence from the lip of the overhang. Full marks to anyone who onsights this classic (I didn't!)

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 111
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 112
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Flakes Direct

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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