Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Climb the gloomy groove to pass the tricky bulge. The direct finish on sloping holds is best, though some of them are rather creaky. Otherwise head right, though this is also a bit loose. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage HS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Brian Mattock 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bulging crack felt harder than 4b whether you layback it or jam it! Finish didn't seem too loose or flaky.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bulging crack felt harder than 4b whether you layback it or jam it! Finish didn't seem too loose or flaky.
Duncan Beard 7 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Gear in the crack overhead meant I had to layback the crux but Dylan jammed it nicely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gear in the crack overhead meant I had to layback the crux but Dylan jammed it nicely.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 37
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brown's Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bamford Edge)

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