Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The short-lived hanging jamming crack above Cave Buttress. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
keepguessing 8 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up.
Alexander_Metcalfe 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang
Pythonist 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b
Show beta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
Alex Mason 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
Paz 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
MeMeMe 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go!
Garan 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
laaljohn 21 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 147
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Intestate Direct Start

Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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