14m.

Rockfax Description
The short-lived hanging jamming crack above Cave Buttress. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
keepguessing 8 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up.
Alexander_Metcalfe 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang
Pythonist 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b
Show beta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
Alex Mason 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
Paz 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
MeMeMe 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go!
Garan 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
laaljohn 21 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 146
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 138
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tower Chimney

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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