Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The short-lived hanging jamming crack above Cave Buttress. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1958.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| keepguessing | 8 May |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up. |
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| Alexander_Metcalfe | 10 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang |
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| Pythonist | 10 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b |
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| Neil Ireson | 24 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears. |
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| Alex Mason | 11 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!! |
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| Paz | 27 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it. |
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| MeMeMe | 27 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go! |
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| Garan | 2 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 9 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks. |
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| laaljohn | 21 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book. |
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| Paz | 30 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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The Eye of Faith
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Gardom's Edge)