Rockfax Description
The short-lived hanging jamming crack above Cave Buttress. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1958.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Tom's crack funtimes , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Peak grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| keepguessing | 8 May |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought a fair bit harder than quietus, took me a while to figure out the beta and it was cold but genuinely a fair bit harder and more grovelling. Took the "E1" line straight up. |
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| Alexander_Metcalfe | 10 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang |
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| Pythonist | 10 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b |
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| Neil Ireson | 24 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears. |
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| Alex Mason | 11 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!! |
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| Paz | 27 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it. |
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| MeMeMe | 27 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go! |
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| Garan | 2 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 9 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks. |
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| laaljohn | 21 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book. |
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| Paz | 30 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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The Left Unconquerable
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)