Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An awkward well-protected move to enter the thin crack. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Rubery 1997.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Beginner Peak Severe , Stanage Severes (UKC)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KelliePyart | 22 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely loved this climb. First severe 4b led and what a treat it was. Really nice well protected crux if you can reach the crack above for a nice nut. Really got to trust your feet for making that move up to the second break. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Absolutely loved this climb. First severe 4b led and what a treat it was. Really nice well protected crux if you can reach the crack above for a nice nut. Really got to trust your feet for making that move up to the second break. |
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| howlingbaboon | 14 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Iain Thow - rubbish! you must have gone up the Vdiff next to it, or used the arete, don't believe you did this crux in trainers. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Iain Thow - rubbish! you must have gone up the Vdiff next to it, or used the arete, don't believe you did this crux in trainers. |
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| Iain Thow | 4 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surely there's only one route up this slab. Soloed it in trainers as a beginner & found it easy - but enjoyed it so much I did it again immediately | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Surely there's only one route up this slab. Soloed it in trainers as a beginner & found it easy - but enjoyed it so much I did it again immediately |
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| fenclimb | 9 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Find it very hard to tell which routes are which here cos they are all crammed in | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Find it very hard to tell which routes are which here cos they are all crammed in |
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| LakesWinter | 3 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is pretty easy for 4b, there is a small foothold under the overlap that aids the mantle, fun climb and a good warm up too | ||
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Show beta
βeta: This is pretty easy for 4b, there is a small foothold under the overlap that aids the mantle, fun climb and a good warm up too |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Crack and Corner
Grade: S 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)