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20m.

Rockfax Description
An ancient classic. Climb the rib under the centre of the buttress to a ledge (hard for the short). Up then right to climb the centre of the slab by a crucial mantel. Continue up the airy arete. © Rockfax

FA. Ivar Berg 1914.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, 100 Stanage stars, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Hard Grit history, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Darrencabowabo,s hit list, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Chatsworth to Bamford, 50 of the Best, Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, On Peak Rock, Consolidation and developmental path to VS, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
JayWhiting 27 May Show βeta
βeta: Great route and worthy of the Top 50 badge. The middle section is the crux, which was overcome by a small side pull with the right hand before working the feet up the wall to access the mantel. Top climbing.
 
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βeta: Great route and worthy of the Top 50 badge. The middle section is the crux, which was overcome by a small side pull with the right hand before working the feet up the wall to access the mantel. Top climbing.
Pythonist 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Solo, this feels like a slightly high grade VS, but not by much. Great route though it is, I'm not totally convinced of it's position as one of the best VSs in the Peak. Perhaps it was the screaming cadet crowd top-roping next door that detracted from the enjoyment!
βeta?
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βeta: Solo, this feels like a slightly high grade VS, but not by much. Great route though it is, I'm not totally convinced of it's position as one of the best VSs in the Peak. Perhaps it was the screaming cadet crowd top-roping next door that detracted from the enjoyment!
Tom M Williams 24 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, gear sparse but its there when you need it. I liked Black slab (hargreaves original route?) more tho. Still well worth the 3stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, gear sparse but its there when you need it. I liked Black slab (hargreaves original route?) more tho. Still well worth the 3stars.
Si dH 5 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: ok repeated this yesterday and yes, the crux is well-protected. Must have had blinkers on the first timeI did it I guess. Getting stood in the break from where you place the gear is bold, though. Love the route.
βeta?
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βeta: ok repeated this yesterday and yes, the crux is well-protected. Must have had blinkers on the first timeI did it I guess. Getting stood in the break from where you place the gear is bold, though. Love the route.
Simon Caldwell 4 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: That wasn't me, it was SidH.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: That wasn't me, it was SidH.
Andrew Barker 3 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, sketchy solo! I started in the little cave on the left and pulled through the right side of it onto the left side of the slab. Followed the left side of the buttress the whole way - it all makes a good variation
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, sketchy solo! I started in the little cave on the left and pulled through the right side of it onto the left side of the slab. Followed the left side of the buttress the whole way - it all makes a good variation
Simon Caldwell 2 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: "you're all wrong"? Apart from everyone who said there was good gear. And you don't seem to have noticed the good no 6 nut placement - just because you didn't find it doesn't mean it's not there ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "you're all wrong"? Apart from everyone who said there was good gear. And you don't seem to have noticed the good no 6 nut placement - just because you didn't find it doesn't mean it's not there ;-)
LakesWinter 1 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Sid, you can get a good number 6 nut in the cam slot on the left just before the crux, you can also get a 1.5 sized cam next to this. The bottom is bold but the crux is well protected
 
Show beta
βeta: Sid, you can get a good number 6 nut in the cam slot on the left just before the crux, you can also get a 1.5 sized cam next to this. The bottom is bold but the crux is well protected
Simon Caldwell 1 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The bomber nut placement at the crux is to the left of centre IIRC.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bomber nut placement at the crux is to the left of centre IIRC.
Si dH 1 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Simon Caldwell: The sideways nut placement mentioned above (by woker I believe) is complete crap, would not hold anything and is micro-nut size anyway (number 1 wallnut considerably too big). I could have done with a 1.5 cam but didnt have one, the 1 went in, albeit a bit undercammed. Where is your bomber nut? There could be placements over on the far right in the big break you stand in to place the cam, but I didn't go looking over there, its off route and I didn't fancy traversing anyway. If you start up the right hand-side at the bottom Im sure you can get gear in lower down, on the left-hand side (the original route) there is one very dodgy looking placement for a number 1 cam which i decided wasnt worth it at the time - a good job since if Id placed it Id have had nothing at all for the crux.
 
Show beta
βeta: Simon Caldwell: The sideways nut placement mentioned above (by woker I believe) is complete crap, would not hold anything and is micro-nut size anyway (number 1 wallnut considerably too big). I could have done with a 1.5 cam but didnt have one, the 1 went in, albeit a bit undercammed. Where is your bomber nut? There could be placements over on the far right in the big break you stand in to place the cam, but I didn't go looking over there, its off route and I didn't fancy traversing anyway. If you start up the right hand-side at the bottom Im sure you can get gear in lower down, on the left-hand side (the original route) there is one very dodgy looking placement for a number 1 cam which i decided wasnt worth it at the time - a good job since if Id placed it Id have had nothing at all for the crux.
Furzy Sleight 30 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is a truly great grit VS that held a lot of fear for me as a good friend took a very serious ground fall from the crux. It is however a great solo as well
βeta?
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βeta: This is a truly great grit VS that held a lot of fear for me as a good friend took a very serious ground fall from the crux. It is however a great solo as well
Simon Caldwell 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: SidH, I'm afraid you're wrong and everyone else is right. Being a natural coward, I usually place both the bomber nut and a 'just in case' cam for the crux. The rest has adequate protection, though sometimes it's below your feet.
βeta?
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βeta: SidH, I'm afraid you're wrong and everyone else is right. Being a natural coward, I usually place both the bomber nut and a 'just in case' cam for the crux. The rest has adequate protection, though sometimes it's below your feet.
Mr Pink 2 29 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'm afraid not old boy. I put at least 2 nuts, and 2 friends in at the crux. The bottom is bold, but relatively easy. Anyway, a brilliant route - I don't see any reason why it wouldn't make a good (and memorable) first VS, as long as you've got the right gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm afraid not old boy. I put at least 2 nuts, and 2 friends in at the crux. The bottom is bold, but relatively easy. Anyway, a brilliant route - I don't see any reason why it wouldn't make a good (and memorable) first VS, as long as you've got the right gear.
Si dH 13 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Oh and after reading the above comments, I can confirm to anyone wanting to lead this route that they are bollocks. I saw three other peole lead this today and while the ones doing the right-hand start got something in lower down, no-one had more than one cam for the crux. three nuts is a load of rubbish, expect to be scared if VS is your limit. High in the grade IMO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Oh and after reading the above comments, I can confirm to anyone wanting to lead this route that they are bollocks. I saw three other peole lead this today and while the ones doing the right-hand start got something in lower down, no-one had more than one cam for the crux. three nuts is a load of rubbish, expect to be scared if VS is your limit. High in the grade IMO.
Si dH 13 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Well I heard it was not too well protected - but I didnt know I would be soloing the first 12 or 13m, then just have one dodgy cam for the crux. Pretty scary, but a great route, one of the best.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well I heard it was not too well protected - but I didnt know I would be soloing the first 12 or 13m, then just have one dodgy cam for the crux. Pretty scary, but a great route, one of the best.
Simon Caldwell 11 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Mark, I don't think routes are awarded stars according to how easy or difficult they are, that's what the grade is for. If you're just pushing VS, or are crap at slabs, this isn't easy.
βeta?
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βeta: Mark, I don't think routes are awarded stars according to how easy or difficult they are, that's what the grade is for. If you're just pushing VS, or are crap at slabs, this isn't easy.
Jon Greengrass 20 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bold??? what a well protected route if you've got a full set of cams, The moves are easy 4c if you're used to grit slabs, one to add to my solo list.
βeta?
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βeta: Bold??? what a well protected route if you've got a full set of cams, The moves are easy 4c if you're used to grit slabs, one to add to my solo list.
gav p 15 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Reachy moves to start, followed by good friend 1.5 placement. Tenuous moves on the slabby central section; the crux seems almost undo-able at first due to the poor nature of the holds, but just lean in, commit to the balancy mantel and trust your feet, and it feels brilliant and easier than it looks. The angle of the slab is in your favour. The upper section is a romp. You have to work for your gear (almost exclusively cams - so take a decent selection), but you can get good, if well spaced placements. Felt high in the grade, and definitely not a first VS.
 
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Reachy moves to start, followed by good friend 1.5 placement. Tenuous moves on the slabby central section; the crux seems almost undo-able at first due to the poor nature of the holds, but just lean in, commit to the balancy mantel and trust your feet, and it feels brilliant and easier than it looks. The angle of the slab is in your favour. The upper section is a romp. You have to work for your gear (almost exclusively cams - so take a decent selection), but you can get good, if well spaced placements. Felt high in the grade, and definitely not a first VS.
Robo 30 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Found this easy, apart from the start. The gear is good enough where you need it, and top is a fantastic run-out. If you like that sort of thing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this easy, apart from the start. The gear is good enough where you need it, and top is a fantastic run-out. If you like that sort of thing.
AndrewHuddart 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route! Solid at the grade, plenty of gear where you need it and a great introduction to proper grit slabs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route! Solid at the grade, plenty of gear where you need it and a great introduction to proper grit slabs.
Paul Boardman 25 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I found this quite hard for a VS! That mantleshelf is quite unnervng! But it's bommer protection & easy afterwards. A fantastic route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found this quite hard for a VS! That mantleshelf is quite unnervng! But it's bommer protection & easy afterwards. A fantastic route!
Horse 11 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Surely one of the best VS routes on grit, which is high praise and still somewhat bold especially if pushing the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surely one of the best VS routes on grit, which is high praise and still somewhat bold especially if pushing the grade.

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Route of Interest

Pothole Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)