Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the crack up the left side of the pillar to reach the impressive chimney system. Tricky moves are then needed to enter the main fissure before following it with pleasure. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Pigott 1919.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , Chatsworth to Bamford , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Chimney Tour , Stanage 'Difficults' , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Solo , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , Stanage Severes (UKC) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Forgotten Art , The Golden Age of Stanage Chimney’s , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
clownboy 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty boggy round the base, even after a dry week.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty boggy round the base, even after a dry week.
Sarah Dixon 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Going up the crack on the right, the block on the top moved quite significantly when I placed a cam behind it and gave it a token pull. Also sounded quite hollow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Going up the crack on the right, the block on the top moved quite significantly when I placed a cam behind it and gave it a token pull. Also sounded quite hollow.
hainesck100 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Block on top of pillar moved when I was using it today. Would suggest belayer stands clear just in case.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Block on top of pillar moved when I was using it today. Would suggest belayer stands clear just in case.
Simon Caldwell 8 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I can't see any reason to upgrade this from its traditional grade of VDiff. Only one tricky move and that's well protected. I suppose it depends on how good you are at chimneys!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I can't see any reason to upgrade this from its traditional grade of VDiff. Only one tricky move and that's well protected. I suppose it depends on how good you are at chimneys!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 64
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Principia

Grade: S 4a ***
(Shining Clough)

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