Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The crack right of the corner eases with height but becomes awkward to protect. A bit of a big boot route. © Rockfax

FA. W.A.Boyd early 1910s.

Ticklists

Stanage; Diffs on the cliffs , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
KelliePyart 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose block on the top. Don't anchor from it. Need big cams for this and more than two. Took a camalot c4 size 4 and a blue dragon cam size 5. Could have done with one more for the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose block on the top. Don't anchor from it. Need big cams for this and more than two. Took a camalot c4 size 4 and a blue dragon cam size 5. Could have done with one more for the top.
KelliePyart 28 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose block on the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose block on the top.
tessa23 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really huge loose block, at the top of the route. Have marked with a X.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really huge loose block, at the top of the route. Have marked with a X.
Fokka 14 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Needs really big gear - larger crack than blue or silver cams Or committ to the slab
Show beta
βeta: Needs really big gear - larger crack than blue or silver cams Or committ to the slab
Fokka 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Needs really big gear - larger crack than blue or silver cams Or committ to the slab
Show beta
βeta: Needs really big gear - larger crack than blue or silver cams Or committ to the slab
cmsg 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The slab just left of this is a somewhat eliminate E1 5b. It's a perfectly reasonable route, and pleasent to solo at the grade. I regard it as a shame that PGE and this database neglect to mention it. Not the best route around, but not the worst, either.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The slab just left of this is a somewhat eliminate E1 5b. It's a perfectly reasonable route, and pleasent to solo at the grade. I regard it as a shame that PGE and this database neglect to mention it. Not the best route around, but not the worst, either.
LakesWinter 14 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Hard Diff would be a fair grade, a bit of a joke at moderate like it is in the other guides
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard Diff would be a fair grade, a bit of a joke at moderate like it is in the other guides

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hollybush Crack

Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)

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