Restricted Access
To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.
36m.
No description has been contributed for this climb.
FA. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 21/Aug/1990.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 15 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The CC guidebook description doesn’t feel 100% accurate (or helpful), so here’s a few addition comments which should help people on their way. Where it says ‘easier climbing leads to a break, thread runner’ it’s not actually any easier - it’s actually quite hard - and the in-situ threads are in quite a poor state (sorry, didn’t manage to replace them, but they’re easily backed up anyway). Above, once on the small ledge out right, it says to take an ‘easier angled wall above’, which sounds pretty innocuous. I’d say to wander up the vague, bold, and boomy wall above, giving it the respect it deserves (tread carefully and keep searching around for gear - it’s there, just). At the very top continue up the runnel, as per the description. Whilst it may look tempting out left it’s loose and extremely dangerous. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The CC guidebook description doesn’t feel 100% accurate (or helpful), so here’s a few addition comments which should help people on their way. Where it says ‘easier climbing leads to a break, thread runner’ it’s not actually any easier - it’s actually quite hard - and the in-situ threads are in quite a poor state (sorry, didn’t manage to replace them, but they’re easily backed up anyway). Above, once on the small ledge out right, it says to take an ‘easier angled wall above’, which sounds pretty innocuous. I’d say to wander up the vague, bold, and boomy wall above, giving it the respect it deserves (tread carefully and keep searching around for gear - it’s there, just). At the very top continue up the runnel, as per the description. Whilst it may look tempting out left it’s loose and extremely dangerous. |
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Route of Interest
Male Bonding
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)