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24m.

Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham 26/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist, Extreme 2018, E is for Easy... Right?, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist, Soft Touches

Feedback

User Date Notes
a_radiohead_fan 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: pumpy pumpy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pumpy pumpy.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence.
βeta?
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βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence.
Furzy Sleight 8 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Ear Lobes?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ear Lobes?
john horscroft 30 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short.
βeta?
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βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing.
βeta?
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βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete.
βeta?
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βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think.
βeta?
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βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet!
βeta?
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βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 183
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 168
Votes cast 166
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Rock around the Block

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Trevallen Cliff)