Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

24m.

Rockfax Description
Easy E3 or hard E2, the discussions will go on for ever. Start below the arete and climb a crack in its right-hand side. Make a satisfying move leftwards to a jug on the arete, then move back right to finish. Some people accidentally continue direct from where the crack ends which makes it about 6a (and proper E3!). © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, B.Wintringham, M.Wintringham 26/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Soft Touches , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Local Ticklist , Pembs Ticklist , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
S Strydom 18 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Incredible route! Big thanks to Willth9 for the belay. Loved working on this after really struggling on it on top rope last year, made it one of my goals for this year. Admittedly had a few solo sessions working the moves and gear out but still felt pretty pumpy. Lots of good gear and decent holds all the way up. Although I never really used the hidden jug as it was just out of my reach so just used the arete and climbed past the jug. So happy to get it done.
Show beta
βeta: Incredible route! Big thanks to Willth9 for the belay. Loved working on this after really struggling on it on top rope last year, made it one of my goals for this year. Admittedly had a few solo sessions working the moves and gear out but still felt pretty pumpy. Lots of good gear and decent holds all the way up. Although I never really used the hidden jug as it was just out of my reach so just used the arete and climbed past the jug. So happy to get it done.
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Starting stripping off as was too hot to get any composure before the crux sequence. Max laughed! Couldn\'t, wouldn\'t commit as throwing to a secret hold is not my favourite when performing blind. It is there though. Had a wee cry, a meltdown trying to get the motivation to go. Hung on the rope and after thinking how stupid I was went for it. Straight through the crux. I patted myself on the back. I\'ll be back Butcher. Maybe on slightly a cooler day though. I want you!
Show beta
βeta: Starting stripping off as was too hot to get any composure before the crux sequence. Max laughed! Couldn't, wouldn't commit as throwing to a secret hold is not my favourite when performing blind. It is there though. Had a wee cry, a meltdown trying to get the motivation to go. Hung on the rope and after thinking how stupid I was went for it. Straight through the crux. I patted myself on the back. I'll be back Butcher. Maybe on slightly a cooler day though. I want you!
a_radiohead_fan 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: pumpy pumpy.
Show beta
βeta: pumpy pumpy.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence.
Show beta
βeta: If it is E3 it is right at the bottom of any graded list. I did this and Sunlover on the same day and calling them both E3 is daft. You can hang from the mid-height jug for hours and place at least two bomber nuts before committing to the crux sequence.
Furzy Sleight 8 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Ear Lobes?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ear Lobes?
john horscroft 30 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short.
Show beta
βeta: I just seem to know too many capable leaders who've taken big lobes off this route for it to be E2. Particularly tough for the short.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing.
Show beta
βeta: If you compare this to Clean Hand it feels like it's worth an extra grade. The trouble for most is that the crux comes after a draining pumpy section and therefore feels that much harder and more committing.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete.
Show beta
βeta: Several leaders trying this for their first E2/3 have decked, but the gear is good. The crux is committing and it can be quite hard to place the gear after you've got onto the arete.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think.
Show beta
βeta: Seems more like E3 to me as well, one tricky arete move after pumpy crack leads to huge holds, though it is a lot better protected than you might think.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet!
Show beta
βeta: A superb route :) Commit to the arete and try not to think about your gear and the space beneath your feet!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 201
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 184
Votes cast 186
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rollerwall

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Crystal Slabs Area)

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