Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

39m.

Rockfax Description
One of the most sought-after routes in Pembroke. It tackles the cracks and flakes up the right-hand side of the buttress. The climbing is never too difficult but there are some hard moves, and there have been many accidents on the lower section. Start just to the right of the flake of Cupid's Bow. Climb up - make sure your gear is good - and gain a rightwards-trending line of cracks. Climb this to a tricky move right into a groove. Most people finish rightwards to a ledge and easy groove above, but it is better to pull straight through the roof, with no increase in grade. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance, D.Armstrong 19/Feb/1977.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The Best of Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Extreme 2018 , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , Beginners Pembroke , 3 star Pembroke e1. , Cool Names , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , Pembroke ticket , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembs Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Doesn\'t look like much but actually a cool route. Varied with cool climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doesn't look like much but actually a cool route. Varied with cool climbing.
Nea Weston 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 26th July, very young birds nesting half way up the route, consider avoiding
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 26th July, very young birds nesting half way up the route, consider avoiding
Jezadee 11 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: something cute and furry flew out of the flow stone section today
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: something cute and furry flew out of the flow stone section today
Dale 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: What polish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What polish
Richard 261 24 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey? (Like a lot of St Govan's is now). The direct finish over the roof is the only clean and nice bit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey? (Like a lot of St Govan's is now). The direct finish over the roof is the only clean and nice bit.
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: totally overated climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: totally overated climb.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune).
Neil Ireson 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1.
Jus 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Four stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Four stars!
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 274
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 253
Votes cast 278
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rock Idol

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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