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39m.

Rockfax Description
One of the most sought-after routes in Pembroke. It tackles the cracks and flakes up the right-hand side of the buttress. The climbing is never too difficult but there are some hard moves, and there have been many accidents on the lower section. Start just to the right of the flake of Cupid's Bow. Climb up - make sure your gear is good - and gain a rightwards-trending line of cracks. Climb this to a tricky move right into a groove. Most people finish rightwards to a ledge and easy groove above, but it is better to pull straight through the roof, with no increase in grade. © Rockfax

FA. P.Whillance, D.Armstrong 19/Feb/1977.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, The Best of Pembroke, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Extreme 2018, Pembroke Goalz, UK Holiday Plans, Beginners Pembroke, 3 star Pembroke e1., Cool Names, The E1 UK Roadtrip, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
Nea Weston 27 Jul Show βeta
βeta: 26th July, very young birds nesting half way up the route, consider avoiding
βeta?
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βeta: 26th July, very young birds nesting half way up the route, consider avoiding
JerDon 11 Jul Show βeta
βeta: something cute and furry flew out of the flow stone section today
βeta?
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βeta: something cute and furry flew out of the flow stone section today
Dale 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: What polish
βeta?
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βeta: What polish
Richard 261 24 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey? (Like a lot of St Govan's is now). The direct finish over the roof is the only clean and nice bit.
βeta?
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βeta: Why didn't I listen when the E3 climbers in front of me said it was greasy and polished to buggerey? (Like a lot of St Govan's is now). The direct finish over the roof is the only clean and nice bit.
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: totally overated climb.
βeta?
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βeta: totally overated climb.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune).
βeta?
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βeta: Very easy E1 and one of the best routes at Pembroke, best done as the sun is setting! I don't see what the fuss is about with the start, it is steep but not hard and there are E1s with far worse starts not too far away (q.v. Soldier of Fortune).
Neil Ireson 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle.
βeta?
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βeta: A great route with varied moves and generally masses of protection, however unless you're a confident climber I don't think this is an easy E1 and certainly shouldn't be under-estimated. I know of three bad falls back onto the ledge, one resulting in a broken ankle.
drcorbasisgod 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1.
βeta?
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βeta: Bit of a one-move wonder (the slabby bit after the crack peters out near the top). Still an excellent route though, and a great candidate for your first Pembroke E1.
Jus 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Four stars!
βeta?
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βeta: Four stars!
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b.
βeta?
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βeta: Classic route, but you should do the direct finish over the roof to get an E1 tick otherwise it's more like HVS 5b.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 247
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 229
Votes cast 249
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Strait Gate

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)