Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

42m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and popular route which follows the main line of the wall. The climbing in the groove is superb and very pumpy. The upper wall is much easier but has some loose rock so make sure you get some good gear in. Start beneath the weakness in the lower wall. Climb up to the flake/crack and follow good holds up its left-hand side. From the top of the pedestal move up into the groove and follow it leftwards. At a small bulge pull back right onto the upper wall. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 21/Jul/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Becky's ticklist , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
benwiessner 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing in the corner for about 4m - the rest of the route didn\'t seem noteworthy. I\'m actually pretty confused about why this route seems to get a lot of hype? I think Space Cadet is far better. Maybe I missed something...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing in the corner for about 4m - the rest of the route didn't seem noteworthy. I'm actually pretty confused about why this route seems to get a lot of hype? I think Space Cadet is far better. Maybe I missed something...
a_radiohead_fan 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry.
kevin stephens 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don't forget to extend gear under the roof! Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top
Show beta
βeta: Don't forget to extend gear under the roof! Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top
Jus 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy.
GDes 20 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c.

Logged Ascents

556 users have logged this

Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 93 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 93
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Male Bonding

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)

Loading Notifications...