Restricted Access

Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:

Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014

John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m

Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine

D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay 

April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to"  D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points) This restriction has been lifted for 2024 as of 27th May 

Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac . 

 

 

 

 

23m.

Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route, especially on bank holidays. Start below a very wide crack in the east wall of the block. Climb up into the crack then make a slippery traverse left to a well-positioned thinner crack. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis & party Mar/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Pembroke VDiff-HVS , Orange Spot Pembroke , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Pembroke Goalz , Beginners Pembroke , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , Pembroke ticket , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , UWTSD Rock , Pembs Classics , All the climbs UKC said I should do South Wales TM

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 4 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Polished, but actually fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished, but actually fun.
JaySheppard 19 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There are chough nesting in the big crack which I was unaware of until I already started climbing, one started diving at me just before the traverse. Route best avoided until after this year's nesting season
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are chough nesting in the big crack which I was unaware of until I already started climbing, one started diving at me just before the traverse. Route best avoided until after this year's nesting season
Eloise Horsfield 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn\'t need to test it with a fall!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Choose your belay spot wisely as I regretted mine. Lucky didn't need to test it with a fall!
Pero 13 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The polish is taking some of the fun out of the moves.
Steve Lewis 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry about the polish but it's nearly 40 years old now and still popular! ????
tom r 27 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Managed to screw up the route finging when I did this route went too high before doing the traverse and ended up doing a really tenuous traverse that involved almost a contolled fall to get to the big flakey hold. Was really good route though. But more like E1 the way I did it.
Albie 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a belter. Totally agree with all the previous comments - the overhanging start is in fact the easier part of the climb and the fun starts on the traverse. It's all as safe as houses and plenty of big holds. Like Hercules, I'd highly recommend this for a first HVS.
Furzy Sleight 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its that little polished spike thats the bugger!
Chris the Tall 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Vies with Great North Road for the title of best single pitch HVS in the country. Sustained but never that difficult, polished but I didn't find this a big problem.
victim of mathematics 9 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The biggest difficulty is deciding which one of the uber-polishy footholds to use whilst you haul on the mega-jugs. Great stuff.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 291
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 264
Votes cast 299
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sunny Corner

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bosherston Head)

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