Rockfax Description
180m. This is an historic and famous climb, or infamous since the actual crack is an insecure polished thrutch, but the rest makes up for it. The route can be seen from the corrie as a prominent curving crack. Approach by Cìoch Gully to a grass ledge which leads rightwards from below a large chockstone in the gully. Start 10m above this.
1. 40m 4a Climb a square corner to a short slab, then diagonally right to an open 'V'. Climb right around another slab, then go up a steep corner to a narrow ledge.
2. 30m 4a Ascend a steep shallow groove which joins the lower continuation of Crack of Doom. Follow this for 15m to the Terrace.
3. 50m 4b Climb the crack to a chockstone (possible belay). The crack now steepens and narrows (crux) and finishes at the base of the upper glacis (escape possible).
4, 5. 60m 4c Finish straight up a steep corner, taking the more prominent left fork at half-height.
FA B.Ritchie, C.D.Milner (Direct Start), 3 Jun 1936 © Rockfax

A. S. Pigott and J. Wilding 1921.

Ticklists

Crack apprenticeship - Highland North , The Cracks of Scotland

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