Rockfax Description
210m. A fine climb – constantly interesting with a splendidly exposed crux. Start at the right side of the level area, the chimney of Cìoch Direct being at the left side, below a notch-like chimney.
1. 35m 4a Climb polished grooves into a strenuous chimney. Above, easier grooves lead to a stance on the left.
2. 50m 4a Climb a slab back into the easier grooves which lead to an overhung ledge below an off-width crack. Ignore the crack and climb up right across a steep slab on polished incut holds to reach a fine ledge which encircles the upper bastion of the climb. Scramble, then walk right to a flake on the wall.
3. 25m Climb up (or walk further right and climb back left – easier) to reach a right-trending break, followed to ledges.
4. 15m 4a A shallow chimney on the left leads to a left traverse exposed above a huge void, that leads onto a narrow ledge; a fine pitch.
5. 45m Continue left along the ledge to its end, then climb easier rock slightly right, then straight up and over a small crest to a short nose overlooking Cìoch Gully (possible to escape left here).
6. 40m 4a Climb this unlikely bulging wall to easy slabs, which are climbed straight up to the ledge system running below the Cìoch itself.
It is recommended to continue by Cìoch Nose, which climbs straight up from here onto the Cìoch. Alternatively, scramble left and slightly descending to reach Arrow Route.
FA C.F.Holland, H.R.C.Carr, Miss D.E.Pilley, 1919 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1-There are 2 spike belays, one @ 40m and one @ 50m
The Off-width description on p2 is mis-leading. A better description is- "P2 Continue up the groove for 20m to reach a huge flake on the RHS. Traverse up and right across the face of the flake (bold) to reach blocks in the crevasse above. Easily traverse 10m right to a grassy ledge.
P4- After the crux traverse it saves a lot of contortions to continue above the ledge up the steep wall mentioned as the start of P5. A good alloy peg (in situ) is well placed to allow belaying back in view of the crux.
Followed completely the route ends on the Cioch by Cioch Nose rte. Those wanting to climb Arrow Route should traverse left (30m) after the long easy section of scrambling described as a variation to p7

Dorothy Pilley, Carr & Holland 1919.

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