250m, 8 pitches.
Very good varied climbing up the left side of Snow Creek Wall. The full route is not often climbed but the lower pitches are frequently climbed to access the upper pitches of Outer Space, Hyperspace, or Edge of Space.
The route can be done at 5.10c, or with some popular variations on a couple of pitches (3 & 5) at 5.11a.
P1 & P2 Most parties climb the first two pitches of Remorse:
P1. 45m, 5.6. Easy corners and ledges lead up and left.
P2. 25m, 5.10a, A Rightwards traverse leads past a couple of cruxes to a large ledge (the Psychopath ledge). With a 70m rope and a very small amount of easy simul-climbing this can be linked with P1.
P3. 35m, 5.8+. The Iconoclast route takes off left from this ledge, past a bolt and then up somewhat dirty face climbing to a short crack and a ledge above the Psychopath ledge. Alternatively climb the thinning crack directly off Psychopath ledge (Psychopath Crack, 5.11a) to the same ledge.
P4. 50m, 5.10a. A vague corner system leads to a very clean hand crack corner under a roof. Climb through the roof and past steep but buggy climbing to a belay. There are many options for belaying and different ways to climb this pitch and the next.
P5. 45m, 5.10c. Pass another roof directly above the belay leads to lay backing moves in a corner. From here a short traverse leads to a somewhat dirty corner. This steep corner leads to a two-bolt belay.
A variation (The Yellow Wall, 5.11a) goes straight up on steep and interesting climbing rather than traversing into the corner.
P6, 50m, 5.10c. Climb the corner above the tree until it's possible to clip a bolt on the right hand face. Exciting moves above and rightwards past this bolt lead to an exposed move around the righthand arete. From here, moderate but sparsely protected (1 or 2 bolts, and chicken-head slings) climbing leads to a two-bolt anchor.
P7. 25m, 5.7. A clean corner crack (mostly hands) leads to a large ledge (Library ledge) and a two bolt anchor.
P8. From this ledge it is possible to traverse right and finish up Outer Space (68m, 1 or two pitches) which is what most parties do. The original Iconoclast finish is directly up the slab above the ledge, 5.10b, A0, one or two pitches.
The route can be done at 5.10c, or with some popular variations on a couple of pitches (3 & 5) at 5.11a.
P1 & P2 Most parties climb the first two pitches of Remorse:
P1. 45m, 5.6. Easy corners and ledges lead up and left.
P2. 25m, 5.10a, A Rightwards traverse leads past a couple of cruxes to a large ledge (the Psychopath ledge). With a 70m rope and a very small amount of easy simul-climbing this can be linked with P1.
P3. 35m, 5.8+. The Iconoclast route takes off left from this ledge, past a bolt and then up somewhat dirty face climbing to a short crack and a ledge above the Psychopath ledge. Alternatively climb the thinning crack directly off Psychopath ledge (Psychopath Crack, 5.11a) to the same ledge.
P4. 50m, 5.10a. A vague corner system leads to a very clean hand crack corner under a roof. Climb through the roof and past steep but buggy climbing to a belay. There are many options for belaying and different ways to climb this pitch and the next.
P5. 45m, 5.10c. Pass another roof directly above the belay leads to lay backing moves in a corner. From here a short traverse leads to a somewhat dirty corner. This steep corner leads to a two-bolt belay.
A variation (The Yellow Wall, 5.11a) goes straight up on steep and interesting climbing rather than traversing into the corner.
P6, 50m, 5.10c. Climb the corner above the tree until it's possible to clip a bolt on the right hand face. Exciting moves above and rightwards past this bolt lead to an exposed move around the righthand arete. From here, moderate but sparsely protected (1 or 2 bolts, and chicken-head slings) climbing leads to a two-bolt anchor.
P7. 25m, 5.7. A clean corner crack (mostly hands) leads to a large ledge (Library ledge) and a two bolt anchor.
P8. From this ledge it is possible to traverse right and finish up Outer Space (68m, 1 or two pitches) which is what most parties do. The original Iconoclast finish is directly up the slab above the ledge, 5.10b, A0, one or two pitches.
Mean Hargis and Tom Hargis 1971.
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Route of Interest
Sinsemilla
Grade: 5.10c ***
(Frenchman Coulee)