Rockfax Description
The enormous blank slab above the arching overhangs is the spectacular setting for this bold, sustained and thin climb. It sees few ascents and may need to be cleaned and the belay pegs on the stance inspected before an attempt. Stakes in the steep grass slope above the slab may need replacing. Start as for Creeping Flesh, just to the left of the largest arching overhang.
1) 6b, 34m. Climb Creeping Flesh for 8m and then continue in the same line to an old peg above on positive shallow pockets. Move up a thin seam to a small nut placement and make hard moves up and right to a thin crack. Take the thin crack to a final difficult sequence of moves to reach a narrow belay ledge. Peg belays. This stance is totally reliant on pegs and it is probably best to continue unless the pegs are replaced.
2) 6a, 20m. Climb very boldly above the stance and then continue on the same line to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1: The peg is only needed as a guide to show the line of the route, ( Belay pegs are old and in poor condition) Pitch 2: The 1st peg was replaced (poor) the 2nd peg was removed, it was climbed in this state by Stu Bradbury in June 2012


Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , South West in Extremis


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

5 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Smoothlands

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 11 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 4
Route of Interest
Mayan Skies

Grade: E7 6b ***

Loading Notifications...