The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.
Rockfax Description
A steep start left of the adit entrance leads up the wall to a good finish up a crack. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson, Nick Taylor, Andy Beaumont 2002.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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profonrock | 23 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Nice 6a+ after bolt 3, but this route has a small foothold that is now very polished where you clip bolt 2, in the middle of the tricky section (at least 6b, IMO); my (very old) boots slipped off this unexpectedly, so beware. If this happened whilst trying to clip the bolt, you could easily ground fall. Worth thinking about clip-sticking bolt 2. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice 6a+ after bolt 3, but this route has a small foothold that is now very polished where you clip bolt 2, in the middle of the tricky section (at least 6b, IMO); my (very old) boots slipped off this unexpectedly, so beware. If this happened whilst trying to clip the bolt, you could easily ground fall. Worth thinking about clip-sticking bolt 2. |
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smoreda | 16 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: On Northern Limestone (2004) and sportclimbs.com this route is the start RIGHT of the adit entrance. | βeta? | |
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βeta: On Northern Limestone (2004) and sportclimbs.com this route is the start RIGHT of the adit entrance. |
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Gary Gibson | 5 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07 |
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Fiend | 24 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Obvious why this only gets one star - whilst there is good climbing and some sections of nice rock, there's too much loose stuff nearby and sometimes on route. Proper F6b if you stay on the line. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Obvious why this only gets one star - whilst there is good climbing and some sections of nice rock, there's too much loose stuff nearby and sometimes on route. Proper F6b if you stay on the line. |
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Alex Mason | 10 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: nic route more like 2* 6a/+ | βeta? | |
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βeta: nic route more like 2* 6a/+ |
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Carl Smethurst | 23 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: Careful with the rock - my partner pulled a half-metre long block off this, which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Careful with the rock - my partner pulled a half-metre long block off this, which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries! |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)