The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A very pleasant but short wall pitch. Start 3m right of East to West. From a small ledge, make tricky moves to the next ledge. Trend left and follow pocketed rock and a small flake to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start around 3 metres right of the corner and mount the small ledge. Tricky moves lead to the next ledge and good gear before trending left and following the pocketed rock to a small flake crack and above a tree belay.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jrose99 | 23 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: The large boulder at the bottom is (clearly) freshly unearthed from what looked like a huge safe buried slot in the ground. I stood on it to gain the wall. It flipped on its side and I went with it. Landed on my foot and broke 1st and 2nd metatarsal. Be careful of that boulder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The large boulder at the bottom is (clearly) freshly unearthed from what looked like a huge safe buried slot in the ground. I stood on it to gain the wall. It flipped on its side and I went with it. Landed on my foot and broke 1st and 2nd metatarsal. Be careful of that boulder. |
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judethesaint | 5 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: fantastic route on great rock. | ||
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βeta: fantastic route on great rock. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)