The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Wall climbing at its best. Start at the left end of the raised ledge. Head up past a small thread at 3m to a peg at a tiny overlap (thread out to the left). Make tough moves to pass a slight bulge and once above it, go right to a groove and climb it to the top. © Rockfax
Ultimate E1 ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye Valley must do , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3 , 2023 , Road to lundy
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rick Sewards | 9 Dec, 2023 |
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βeta: It\'s worth the belayer taking an anchor from the crack of Last Call | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's worth the belayer taking an anchor from the crack of Last Call |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)