Rockfax Description
270m. A varied, steep, strenuous and generally superb route up the nose of the buttress. Start 10m right of the toe of the buttress.
1. 25m 4c Climb the lower right-facing corner to below a short corner.
2. 25m 4b Climb the short corner and exit left on to slabs. Continue up and left to a good grass ledge below a shallow corner.
3. 40m 4c Climb the corner, then move right and cross the overlap above via a prominent crack. Move left, then go up a right-sloping corner to terraces.
4. 40m Follow short walls and grassy ledges left (approximately as for Steeple) to below a steep wall. The ramp pitch of Steeple goes rightwards from above here.
5. 45m 5c Climb the steep line of weakness (as for Steeple) and continue straight through the slight break, then move right up a ramp (above the Steeple ramp) to a pinnacle.
6. 40m 5a Make delicate moves left onto a ledge and climb pleasant cracks left to a break in the arête. Follow a crack, steep initially, to a ledge below an overhanging wall.
7. 30m 5b Climb a spectacular overhanging crack-groove, passing a prominent flake at the start of the difficulties.
8. 25m 5b Move up right and climb twin vertical cracks in the wall above (common with Steeple), then finish more easily.
FA R.Carrington, I.Nicolson, 1971 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Best Squirm's in Scotland , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

Feedback Always Hide βeta