Rockfax Description
340m. 1. 60m 4b Climb diagonally right across the slab, to turf and grassy grooves, with occasional rock, to belay on a large block on a terrace.
2. 55m 4b Above is a large protruding block below the main grassy corner. The alternative start enters here from the left. Climb the left-bounding slabs of the corner (or the grass in the back) to a belay.
3. 50m 4b The main corner, now with more rock, to belay below a slab dotted with light grey lichen.
4. 25m 4b Continue up grooves leading rightwards past a prominent overhang, to belay on blocks festooned with ancient tat under another roof (The Cave). There are now two options:
5a. 10m 4b The Original Route. Step right and follow a scratched groove to below slabby ground.
6a. 30m 4c Climb the 1st Pale Slab trending left to a ledge and block on the crest (The Hansom Cab Stance).
5b. 15m 4a The Arête Variation. Traverse left, beginning with a line of turf at hand height, on insecure slabby ground to belay on a large block on the crest.
6b. 40m 5a Above is a bulge above a steep, cracked slab. Climb to the bulge, pass this on the left, then climb the wall above just left of, or on, the crest to gain The Hansom Cab Stance. A superb pitch on continuous clean rock.
7. 15m 4c The 2nd Pale Slab lies right of the clean rib above; climb cracks on its slabby left side to belay on a ledge.
8. 10m 5a Ignore an old ring peg in an alcove above. Step right (hard move) up to the 3rd Pale Slab, go up cracks to a ledge, then left to belay at a notch.
9. 25m 4c Step right and surmount the overlap (two old pegs). Climb the cracked 4th Pale Slab above just right of the arête which steepens to gain a small ledge and a belay in a fine position.
10. 20m 5a Short, cracked slabs lead to a little wall (finger cracks, one tricky move). Belay below an obvious V-groove.
11. 40m 4c The awkward V-groove quickly leads to easy ground. Run it out to belay in a fine position on the shoulder. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start down and right of overhangs, where a groove defines the right edge of a prominent slab.
1. 60m 4b Follow the groove and then trend left towards a perched block to belay at the back of the grass terrace.
2. 50m 4a Move right to climb a weakness up to another grass terrace to arrive below a prominent nose/pinnacle; climb a corner on its left and follow the grassy groove system above. Belay below a grass free steepening.
3. 55m 4b Climb the initial steepening and continuation grassy groove to a cul-de-sac below a large roof.
(SMC guide/original line goes right from here and in 2 pitches reaches the wide ledge to the right of the hansom cab stance before traversing it leftwards to reach the stance)
4. 15m 4a Traverse left across the slab by a discontinuous foot ledge to reach a large belay ledge on the crest.
5. 35m 5a Climb up and left to gain a large corner. Climb this/its right wall and then step right to the hansom cab stance, again on the crest (alternative E1 pitch follows the crest on the right).
6. 25m 5a step up left to climb the slab that leads right to a further slab that leads back left to belay beside pegs.
7. 40m 5a Make a big step up on to the slab above and climb its left edge to a small ledge. Climb the crack in the wall on the right.
8. 4a Climb the corner above (15m) which leads to easy ground and scrambling to the summit.

N Drasdo & C Dixon.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , HVS Adventures , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Funros , UK Holiday Plans , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Picos Preparation , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition)

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