Rockfax Description
105m. The original route of the crag – immaculate rock and ample protection.
1. 50m 4a A tricky initial wall leads to a big ledge. Easy climbing (VD) gains a groove just below the terrace below Patey's Wall. Belay, then scramble up to the terrace.
2. 15m 4c Start near the right end of the terrace, climb a shallow corner bending slightly left, then 4m left to beneath prominent cracks.
3. 20m 4b Climb the two short cracks to easier ground and pick a line to a ledge.
4. 20m Continue to the descent terrace.
FA T.W.Patey, 11 Oct 1961 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Park at week parking spot just below switchbacks on road. Climb can be seen from road (5 min walk in!), first pitch is up the easy rock below the climb proper. Head left up crack/ramp at start of first pitch. Interest on first pitch dwindles after those first few moves. Quite bold at the start. 2nd (crux) pitch starts at the ledge, which can be traversed into if avoiding first pitch. Follow the crack up, then traverse left to belay stance. Fairly good gear. Committing 4a/4b move at start of 3rd pitch on good gear. Straightforward after that. 4th pitch starts at ledge, go straight up. Poss to link 3&4, but scope for good belay at top is poor. Better gear for belay at top of pitch 3.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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petaglew | 28 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Generally solid. Holds where you need them, feet more thoughtful. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Generally solid. Holds where you need them, feet more thoughtful. |
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John Cuthbert | 26 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fab, high quality trad route. We dodged the first pitch thinking it looked scrappy, but the final two were worth the boggy stomp up. Slightly unusual and awkward moves (but that's sandstone for ya), and not exactly over protected, but all rendered more manageable by the fixed abseil to the left looking in (static rope and huge ring) back to the mid rake. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Fab, high quality trad route. We dodged the first pitch thinking it looked scrappy, but the final two were worth the boggy stomp up. Slightly unusual and awkward moves (but that's sandstone for ya), and not exactly over protected, but all rendered more manageable by the fixed abseil to the left looking in (static rope and huge ring) back to the mid rake. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Carn nam Buailtean)