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Rockfax Description
A pulse-enhancing and memorable pitch that features an extremely runout crux. Start just right of the arete below some thin cracks.
Gain and climb the cracks to the first horizontal break. Move up the wall to a small flake from where a stiff rock-over gains a thin seam up to the left and the second break just above. Pull through the overhang and step right to finish up the steep prow on good holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The sheer slab between Samson Arete and Demo Route provides a fine bold E5 onsight rather than a miserable no-star top-rope exercise. Gear just above half-height will protect the crux with a swift belayer, so psyche up and go for it. Climb a tricky flared crack to the break, unload all your rack and stand up. Good scoops lead easily to an impasse a small flake, style leftwards via a great sequence to the thin crack and main ledge. Pull over as for DR, the finish right up the flakey nose.

Mark Edwards.


West Country Climbs, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff


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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Coronary Country (via Fay spike)

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)