Rockfax Description
Varied and remarkably sustained climbing up the imposing wall and corners right of Botterill's Slab. Start as for Botterill's Slab.
1) 4b, 12m. As for Botterill's Slab.
2) 5c, 23m. Move up the corner and gain the crack in the right wall. Follow the crack to a ledge then take the narrow corner above until a ledge and belay on the left can be gained.
3) 5c, 24m. The corner and leaning wide crack require some effort. Traverse right along a ledge to a belay.
3a) 5a, 24m. A popular option is the 'Original Route'. Mantelshelf wildly onto the ledge on the right arete. Make an easier mantel onto another ledge and continue right on easier ground. Climb up and left to a belay below the crack of pitch 4.
4) 5b, 13m. Starting on the right end of the ledge move up to a crack (just right of a small overhang) and climb it to a ledge.
5) 5c, 22m. Make difficult moves around the arete on the right (peg). Follow the groove rightwards to a ledge and move right past a bulging rib to easy ground and the top. © Rockfax
C.Bonington, N.Escourt Sep/1971.
Classic safe Lake District E2/E3 , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK? , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , James' Summer Ticklist , York University Students path to greatness , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes , Tolkien route names , 3* Extreme Northern Trad , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Three star lakes E3s , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Eagle Crag (Buttermere))