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80m, 3 pitches.
Rockfax Description
1) 4a, 2) 4c, 3) 4a. A long easy route up the right edge of the face. There is another pitch but it is short on fixed gear. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| frednat | 10 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Note that pitches 1 and 2 are sport but bolts are quite spaced. The first bolt in pitch 1 is 5 metres of the ground. Bring a set of friends and nuts if you plan to do all four pitches as pitches 3 and 4 are mostly trad. Unlike in Rockfax we found the belay station in P2 10 metres straight above the belay of "Bonjour Roger, Merci Ginette" behind the big tree. The descent from the top is tricky. From the third pitch there is a bolt and thread (old tat when we were there) if you want to abb. From pitch four you need to reach the big tree (where you cross the end of P4 of the Grand Parcours), slightly below the top of the Aiguille. From there you can go left or right. We went left (facing the crag, so west) following the rope banister down, then a little further down some path until you get to the belay station of "Les Anges se grattent le Derrière" behind the left hand wall (basically the bottom of the last pitch of Le Souci). Abb down 40 metres down the top of Bisounours, and 20 metres second abb to the ground. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Note that pitches 1 and 2 are sport but bolts are quite spaced. The first bolt in pitch 1 is 5 metres of the ground. Bring a set of friends and nuts if you plan to do all four pitches as pitches 3 and 4 are mostly trad. Unlike in Rockfax we found the belay station in P2 10 metres straight above the belay of "Bonjour Roger, Merci Ginette" behind the big tree. The descent from the top is tricky. From the third pitch there is a bolt and thread (old tat when we were there) if you want to abb. From pitch four you need to reach the big tree (where you cross the end of P4 of the Grand Parcours), slightly below the top of the Aiguille. From there you can go left or right. We went left (facing the crag, so west) following the rope banister down, then a little further down some path until you get to the belay station of "Les Anges se grattent le Derrière" behind the left hand wall (basically the bottom of the last pitch of Le Souci). Abb down 40 metres down the top of Bisounours, and 20 metres second abb to the ground. |
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| frednat | 27 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Belay at first pitch consists of two rusty but solid pitons, a recent-ish Petzl hanger+quicklink and a rusty pivoting non-recognisable hanger+quicklink. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Belay at first pitch consists of two rusty but solid pitons, a recent-ish Petzl hanger+quicklink and a rusty pivoting non-recognisable hanger+quicklink. |
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Route of Interest
Arête du Vallon
Grade: 4c ***
(Luminy)