3 pitches.
Pitch 1 (E7 6b) - Abseil down to an obvious rocky ledge, and from here begin the daunting albeit well-protected traverse rightwards. A few tough moves leading diagonally up and right leads to an even tougher boulder problem along a thin seam. As the climbing steadies, the rock quality diminishes through a gulley feature - downclimb from here to better holds and better protection (make sure to protect the down-climb well for the second!). As the general rock quality improves you head upwards again to a booming flake feature which unfortunately you have to tentatively mantle to gain the positive crack above. The crack is well protected with small to medium cams and fairly positive, but the footholds disappear providing a pumpy 10-15m finale to reach the hanging belay of pitch 2.
Pitch 2 (E8 6b) - Before setting off upwards it's prudent to build a baby bouncer in the big break as you won't be placing gear for some time! Quest on upwards into a sea of orange sandstone, the lighter of which is soft and sandy, the darker is hard and grippy. When you reach the roof at 10m, traverse right to slopers and take a breath before making the first committing moves of the route on crimps to gain a positive flat edge from where you build your nest of RP's. The crux (6b) is only a few metres above you now, but there is bomber cams directly out left guarded by a series of tricky moves that are surprisingly pumpy - to place the gear and return bumps the climb from fr7b+ to fr7c+, so your choice will largely depend on how bold/fit you feel. After climbing the crux moves, continue up for another 10m on ever improving holds until you reach an obvious big break and small ledge to build your next belay.
Pitch 3 (E3ish) - Quest on upwards... if you've got this far you won't fall off. The First Ascent of this pitch was done in the rain!
Pitch 2 (E8 6b) - Before setting off upwards it's prudent to build a baby bouncer in the big break as you won't be placing gear for some time! Quest on upwards into a sea of orange sandstone, the lighter of which is soft and sandy, the darker is hard and grippy. When you reach the roof at 10m, traverse right to slopers and take a breath before making the first committing moves of the route on crimps to gain a positive flat edge from where you build your nest of RP's. The crux (6b) is only a few metres above you now, but there is bomber cams directly out left guarded by a series of tricky moves that are surprisingly pumpy - to place the gear and return bumps the climb from fr7b+ to fr7c+, so your choice will largely depend on how bold/fit you feel. After climbing the crux moves, continue up for another 10m on ever improving holds until you reach an obvious big break and small ledge to build your next belay.
Pitch 3 (E3ish) - Quest on upwards... if you've got this far you won't fall off. The First Ascent of this pitch was done in the rain!
Robbie Phillips + Alex Moore 30/May/2022.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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