Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The slabby left arete is sweetly delicate and remains effectively unprotected - a couple of dubious small cams are available but you wouldn't want to trust them! Despite being low in the grade, it was a superb effort for its day and still requires a cool head. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , One Man and His Serotonin Levels , 2024 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24 , East and West Top 25

Feedback

User Date Notes
north country boy 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Same experience as Greg, went up to 'have a look' and 2 mins later had topped out! Great route in impressive position, but very easy for E4!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Same experience as Greg, went up to 'have a look' and 2 mins later had topped out! Great route in impressive position, but very easy for E4!
Ropeboy 21 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Got to be one of the best lines at the crag! The technical crux being at half height and barely protected and then a bold but easier run out to the top. Class!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got to be one of the best lines at the crag! The technical crux being at half height and barely protected and then a bold but easier run out to the top. Class!
Garan 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: An awesome line with a puzzling, then wild finish. Massively enjoyable throughout.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An awesome line with a puzzling, then wild finish. Massively enjoyable throughout.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 83
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 89
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Goliath

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Burbage South Edge)

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