Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

11m.

Rockfax Description
The arete of the slab is fine climb, delicate with an interesting and bold-feeling detour out left onto a hanging flange. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Crew early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
cragtyke 17 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Small wire near the bottom of the flange will hold a fall!
Show beta
βeta: Small wire near the bottom of the flange will hold a fall!
CharlieMack 14 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Feels very go-ey for VS. The move to the flange isn't too bad, close to gear, but you'd need rps to protect the next (not too hard) moves to the break. Where good gear and holds lead to the top. 4c next to good gear, then 4a/b a long way above gear!
Show beta
βeta: Feels very go-ey for VS. The move to the flange isn't too bad, close to gear, but you'd need rps to protect the next (not too hard) moves to the break. Where good gear and holds lead to the top. 4c next to good gear, then 4a/b a long way above gear!
cornishben 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: offwidth crack?! the route follows the arete of the slab.. the 'underprotected' section can be protected with RP's
Show beta
βeta: offwidth crack?! the route follows the arete of the slab.. the 'underprotected' section can be protected with RP's
shaun walby 20 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Steeping out left at half height feels difficult. Poor gear in this section (crux)adds to a growing feeling of unease, the good news is if you dont fall off the middle bit,you wont fall of the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steeping out left at half height feels difficult. Poor gear in this section (crux)adds to a growing feeling of unease, the good news is if you dont fall off the middle bit,you wont fall of the top.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 150
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 139
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Obscenity

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Burbage North)

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