No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Steve Long, Twid Turner Sep/2013.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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George_Surf | 15 May, 2023 |
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βeta: The guidebook makes it look like you go up the arete and stay right, only joining warpath when you get to the roof; you actually just climb the steep arete and join warpath on the slab! more obvious when youre on it | βeta? | |
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βeta: The guidebook makes it look like you go up the arete and stay right, only joining warpath when you get to the roof; you actually just climb the steep arete and join warpath on the slab! more obvious when youre on it |
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Steve Long | 10 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Alex Mason: I didn't say yours was the first free ascent, yours was the first on-sight flash ascent. Twid and I climbed it free, but with some yo-yoing to place the gear. It was led all free, ground-up (no abseil inspection) for the first ascent though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Alex Mason: I didn't say yours was the first free ascent, yours was the first on-sight flash ascent. Twid and I climbed it free, but with some yo-yoing to place the gear. It was led all free, ground-up (no abseil inspection) for the first ascent though. |
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Grade: E6 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)