No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Nick Bullock and James McHaffie 08/Jul/2014.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Nick Bullock | 2 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Contrary to what is written below, the climb was almost led on-sight, as a single pitch, by moving the cam in the cave along the parallel crack until at the lip (Not as tricky as it sounds, because you are almost sitting down while shuffling). When out of the cave, I leant back and extended it. The on-sight was fluffed when my foot slipped three-quarters of the way along the crack near Dreams and Screams. The first ascent was climbed second go, ground-up, in a single pitch. Sorry Steve, but it is possible ;-) I will say that my second, Caff, had a grade or two in hand, so I didn't care that I couldn't see him or communicate with him, and he didn't appear to be unduly concerned either! Addendum: After Steve has continued with his, it's better done as two pitches, I will continue with, it is not as the first ascent. A single pitch is easily doable with nouse, move the cam along in the cave, extend the runner at the end of the cave after you pull around. But each to their own, take a belay and have E4 6a with 1 point of aid. Horses for courses, it's a great route whatever, just not as good with aid. Yep, I fell off on the on-sight first ascent, it was nothing to do with the ropework, drag or the like, it was all to do with shoddy footwork, it doesn't prove anything Mr Long other than I need to be less sloppy with the feet ;-) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Contrary to what is written below, the climb was almost led on-sight, as a single pitch, by moving the cam in the cave along the parallel crack until at the lip (Not as tricky as it sounds, because you are almost sitting down while shuffling). When out of the cave, I leant back and extended it. The on-sight was fluffed when my foot slipped three-quarters of the way along the crack near Dreams and Screams. The first ascent was climbed second go, ground-up, in a single pitch. Sorry Steve, but it is possible ;-) I will say that my second, Caff, had a grade or two in hand, so I didn't care that I couldn't see him or communicate with him, and he didn't appear to be unduly concerned either! Addendum: After Steve has continued with his, it's better done as two pitches, I will continue with, it is not as the first ascent. A single pitch is easily doable with nouse, move the cam along in the cave, extend the runner at the end of the cave after you pull around. But each to their own, take a belay and have E4 6a with 1 point of aid. Horses for courses, it's a great route whatever, just not as good with aid. Yep, I fell off on the on-sight first ascent, it was nothing to do with the ropework, drag or the like, it was all to do with shoddy footwork, it doesn't prove anything Mr Long other than I need to be less sloppy with the feet ;-) |
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Steve Long | 29 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: On sight is on sight. I rest my case! Best split into 2 pitches. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: On sight is on sight. I rest my case! Best split into 2 pitches. |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)