Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
Brilliant and very bold climbing up the centre of the concave orange wall.
1) 5b, 12m. Magellan's Wall P1.
2) 6b, 35m. Continue right as for Magellan's Wall for 5m to a big diagonal pod. Break out left to a long break. Arrange gear and 'gimble in the wabe' above to a spike jug. Use side-pulls to go rightwards to an undercut (cam) and make hard moves onto the slab above. Finish easily up and right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
F.A. Brilliant runout climbing up the centre of the concave orange wall. Follow Magellan's Wall to the ledge. Continue up Magellan's wall for another 5m to the big diagonal pod. Break out leftwards to the long break. Arrange some protection and gimble in the wabe above to a spike jug. Follow side pulls rightwards, boldly, to an undercut and crucial medium cam then make the crux moves onto the slab above. Finish easily up and right.
Alex Mason & Oli Grounsell 14/Sep/2014.
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Logged Ascents
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The Wild Underdog
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)