The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - From 29th February onwards the restriction is in place for the whole crag due to nesting Peregrines (and Ravens). If possible the restriction will be reduced once the Peregrine's nest site can be confirmed. Please check back here for further updates.
Rockfax Description
A fine route with good climbing and a reachy couple of moves just before easy ground is gained. The best route on the crag - possibly. Make sure to take a decent sized rack especially if you intend to do it as a single pitch. Start under the soaring groove.
1) 4c, 12m. Follow the small groove to a stance on the ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the well-defined groove-line running up the left side of the main face. © Rockfax
FA. Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1964.
Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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EyebrowTom | 30 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: The rock for approx 5m below the top out is a collection of very hollow sounding and feeling death size blocks, which support the very top car sized block you belay from on top of. Be careful where you place gear. Would be interested to know what the crag admin and maybe BMC rep make of it, relative to historic condition. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The rock for approx 5m below the top out is a collection of very hollow sounding and feeling death size blocks, which support the very top car sized block you belay from on top of. Be careful where you place gear. Would be interested to know what the crag admin and maybe BMC rep make of it, relative to historic condition. |
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PaulJepson | 28 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Goes in one pitch fine but the climbing off the belay ledge is not trivial and gear a bit fiddly so go steady. Some big loose blocks at the top but can be avoided. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Goes in one pitch fine but the climbing off the belay ledge is not trivial and gear a bit fiddly so go steady. Some big loose blocks at the top but can be avoided. |
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Craig Samuels | 28 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Left quick draw and Rock 5 on the route after my 2nd 'forgot' them as he battled with the crux! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Left quick draw and Rock 5 on the route after my 2nd 'forgot' them as he battled with the crux! |
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Joe90 | 17 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Pidgeon carcas graveyard belay on the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pidgeon carcas graveyard belay on the top |
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roger whetton | 31 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Something seems to have changed on the lower part of the route and the formerly straightforward start now boasts a hard (5a) move. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Something seems to have changed on the lower part of the route and the formerly straightforward start now boasts a hard (5a) move. |
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drcorbasisgod | 7 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A great route, with the crux at the top! Also, good photo-op from the grassy ledge halfway up on the left. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A great route, with the crux at the top! Also, good photo-op from the grassy ledge halfway up on the left. |
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derekm | 15 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Climbed 14 6 05 after six years .... still hard going, getting more polished and very good value at HVS 5a... nearer 5b now ?? The photo is of Via Vita isn't it? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Climbed 14 6 05 after six years .... still hard going, getting more polished and very good value at HVS 5a... nearer 5b now ?? The photo is of Via Vita isn't it? |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)