The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.
Rockfax Description
One of the historic landmark routes of the Peak. The way to climb it these days is in one giant pitch from the ground for an amazing 8a tick, although it is still a good 7c+ tick done in one pitch to the belay of Body Machine. Climb up the Body Machine start, then traverse rightwards past a belay and up the technical wall to a big hole in the break. Move slightly right again and then straight up the tufa-line via superb moves. Enter the massive groove-line above and get a sneaky rest at the Body Machine belay. Finally climb up to the giant roof and exit (via very powerful moves) to a belay up and right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
THE way to climb the route these days in one awesome pitch from the ground! Can easily be climbed on one rope. Start up the Body Machine direct start and shares a new belay with the Crucifixion.
Ron Fawcett 1982. (In one pitch, Mark Pretty 2003).
Classic Hard Peak Limestone , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Classic UK F7s , World Graded List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Lime Time , Another lifelist? , Sport life
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Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)