Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting raven - applies to the whole crag including the scrambles in the Cicerone Guide.

50m, 2 pitches. Takes a direct line up the crag into the impressive groove system to the left of Liquid Engineering’s top pitch.

P1. 5c. 25m Takes the space between Liquid Engineering and Boy Racer. Start as for Boy Racer at the right hand edge of the arch, but pull directly over the initial roof into a short groove. Climb directly up the wall for a further 5m to a break and protection (just left of Liquid Engineering). Follow the wall above on easier climbing formed by miniature grooves and small recesses to the main break. Above lies a blank nose of rock with a peg (Universal type). Climb up to the peg and battle the next few moves above to gain the ramp and in-situ threads/belay as for Liquid Engineering.

P2. 6a. 25m The open grooves between Dipstick and Liquid Engineering. Follow the ramp leftwards for 3m until a crack/flake provides access onto the upper wall and groove system. Make hard moves from the crack/flake to reach a peg and further hard moves up and left (crux) to gain a hanging groove. Follow this groove (4m) pulling onto the easier angled wall above and steady climbing to the top.

Rob Matheson, Craig Matheson 15/Aug/2022.

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Route of Interest
Alpine Ringlet

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Raven Crag (Highstile))

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