Rockfax Description
A great climb that features superb wall climbing in its upper reaches and a tough (but well-protected) first pitch. Start at the base of a wall between two trees.
1) 4a, 12m. Starting on the right, move leftwards across the wall and around a rib to below a widening crack. Make a difficult move to enter the crack and follow it more easily to a ledge.
2) 20m. Follow the rib above to a good ledge. Move up the short wall and traverse left for 10m to a ledge and belay at a pinnacle.
3) 14m. Move right and up to flakes at 3m. Climb the wall above rightwards on positive holds to a belay at a well scratched crack.
4) 25m. Climb a small corner and wall to an overlap before stepping left and up onto the wall above. Finish slightly left up the wall and cracks in a fine position. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Great route but take care as easy to go off route on pitch 4.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , MUMC Ticklist , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3* Severes , EUMC - Must do climbs , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , James and Leah's Multipitch madness (nice climbs) , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lakes ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jeremy Wilson | 27 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Matthew's first trad lead route. Excellent. Walked off the traditional way and didn't think the 2018 rockfall had changed things that much. Just need to take care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Matthew's first trad lead route. Excellent. Walked off the traditional way and didn't think the 2018 rockfall had changed things that much. Just need to take care. |
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CianParry | 16 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Top pitch felt the hardest, in the crack after the overhang | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top pitch felt the hardest, in the crack after the overhang |
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sbc23 | 15 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Stack of loose blocks at the top of the route, no sensible place to move them away to. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stack of loose blocks at the top of the route, no sensible place to move them away to. |
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oldquinn | 21 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Care needed on first 4 metres of 3rd pitch as some loose and wobbly holds but these get more secure as you progress up this pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Care needed on first 4 metres of 3rd pitch as some loose and wobbly holds but these get more secure as you progress up this pitch |
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jonzza | 1 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: IMHO this climb is better if you slightly extend the first ptich to end just before the traverse. | ||
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βeta: IMHO this climb is better if you slightly extend the first ptich to end just before the traverse. |
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joepowellll | 13 May, 2019 |
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βeta: loose rock when traversing along ledge | βeta? | |
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βeta: loose rock when traversing along ledge |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))