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The tree above the Middlefell Buttress descent has now fallen: early November 21. It is lodged in the gully below. The remaining timber has been cleared. The blocks behind the tree  are used as an abseil point into the gully. They may be weakened by the demise of the tree. Caution advised in using the blocks. It is possible to scamble down this descent, but it is loose and serious.

A significant rockfall from the split block on the normal descent has meant that a large block and oak tree which formed part of the descent route through its trickiest section are now gone. The descent (which was already awkward and had resulted in several bad accidents over the years) is now significantly more difficult and exposed. A great deal of care will be needed if attempting this descent now and alternative descents are probably better either by abseil or walking to the top of the crag, heading right and coming down around the side of East Raven Crag.  2018

2019 Update: Due to rockfall the traditional Split Blocks descent route can no longer be recommended. An abseil descent has been established. Details are as follows, guidebook references are to the definitive Langdale (2013) and Lake District Rock (2015).

The Langdale guide has photodiagrams on pages 153 and 160 that show the traditional Split Blocks descent. In Lake District Rock this descent is shown on the photodiagrams on pages 69 and 70. On the Revelation Area view in the definitive guide (page 160), a skull and crossbones symbol will be seen above the finish of Kneewrecker Chimney (route 24). In Lake District Rock (page 70) the symbol is an exclamation mark and Kneewrecker Chimney is route 11. These symbols mark the start of the even more unsafe scrambling descent warned about in these guides and it is now exactly where the abseil station is located. Likewise on the main frontal view of the crag, these symbols will be seen above the line marking the traditional descent route. To find the abseil station the general instruction is; From the top of the main buttress head up and generally rightwards for a few metres (vague path) and the abseil strop/station will be seen around a huge flake-block. A 30m abseil takes you to easy ground. However, this abseil can be done on a single 50m rope to reach ledges at 25m but care is required not to go past these and run off the end of the rope – tie knots in the ends of your rope!

4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great climb that features superb wall climbing in its upper reaches and a tough (but well-protected) first pitch. Start at the base of a wall between two trees.
1) 4a, 12m. Starting on the right, move leftwards across the wall and around a rib to below a widening crack. Make a difficult move to enter the crack and follow it more easily to a ledge.
2) 20m. Follow the rib above to a good ledge. Move up the short wall and traverse left for 10m to a ledge and belay at a pinnacle.
3) 14m. Move right and up to flakes at 3m. Climb the wall above rightwards on positive holds to a belay at a well scratched crack.
4) 25m. Climb a small corner and wall to an overlap before stepping left and up onto the wall above. Finish slightly left up the wall and cracks in a fine position. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great route but take care as easy to go off route on pitch 4.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , MUMC Ticklist , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3* Severes , EUMC - Must do climbs , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , James and Leah's Multipitch madness (nice climbs) , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lakes ticklist , Chasing Stars across the UK

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thestboss 12 May Show βeta
βeta: Huge flakes at the start of pitch three very loose. Wobble backwards and forewards with very little effort. Take care!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Huge flakes at the start of pitch three very loose. Wobble backwards and forewards with very little effort. Take care!
Jeremy Wilson 27 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Matthew's first trad lead route. Excellent. Walked off the traditional way and didn't think the 2018 rockfall had changed things that much. Just need to take care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Matthew's first trad lead route. Excellent. Walked off the traditional way and didn't think the 2018 rockfall had changed things that much. Just need to take care.
CianParry 16 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch felt the hardest, in the crack after the overhang
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch felt the hardest, in the crack after the overhang
sbc23 15 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stack of loose blocks at the top of the route, no sensible place to move them away to.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stack of loose blocks at the top of the route, no sensible place to move them away to.
oldquinn 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Care needed on first 4 metres of 3rd pitch as some loose and wobbly holds but these get more secure as you progress up this pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Care needed on first 4 metres of 3rd pitch as some loose and wobbly holds but these get more secure as you progress up this pitch
jonzza 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: IMHO this climb is better if you slightly extend the first ptich to end just before the traverse.
Show beta
βeta: IMHO this climb is better if you slightly extend the first ptich to end just before the traverse.
joepowellll 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: loose rock when traversing along ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: loose rock when traversing along ledge

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Style of Ascent
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Followed
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Redpoint
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Route of Interest
Gillercombe Buttress

Grade: S 4a ***
(Gillercombe)

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