Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing that is sustained and pumpy but on generally good holds. Start under the long low overhang.
1) 4c, 35m. Traverse left to below a groove at the left end of the low overhang. Climb the wall left of the groove, then transfer across it to the right wall and follow it to a terrace.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the wall above via a crack to a belay. Finish and descend as for Middlefell Buttress or abseil from the left end of the ledge (looking in). © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent climbing that is sustained and pumpy but on generally good holds. Start under the right end of the the long low overhang.
1) 4c, 38m. Traverse left to above a pinnacle at the left end of the low overhang. Proceed straight up for roughly 2 metres then traverse to almost back above your belayer and proceed straight up on lighter sandy coloured rock with small jugs.
2) 4a, 10m. Climb the wall above via a crack to a belay. Finish and descend as for Middlefell Buttress or abseil from the left end of the ledge (looking in).
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 24 Apr |
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βeta: Definitive VS 4c and lovely open, slightly steep climbing that is more enjoyable, IMO, than Bilberry Buttress. The rock is really clean, not lichen-covered. However, the micro-route finding is a little tricky, judging by logbook comments. You go a little further left than expected at the start, then a bit further right than expected at the traverse. As you traverse right, there is a vague groove with lots of lichen, which is climbable at a similar grade but is the incorrect line. If you traverse two metres further right to a good hold/short spike, you find yourself below another groove of clean rock, which is the correct line. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitive VS 4c and lovely open, slightly steep climbing that is more enjoyable, IMO, than Bilberry Buttress. The rock is really clean, not lichen-covered. However, the micro-route finding is a little tricky, judging by logbook comments. You go a little further left than expected at the start, then a bit further right than expected at the traverse. As you traverse right, there is a vague groove with lots of lichen, which is climbable at a similar grade but is the incorrect line. If you traverse two metres further right to a good hold/short spike, you find yourself below another groove of clean rock, which is the correct line. |
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Buckers360 | 30 Mar |
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βeta: Found the route finding tricky, lots of lichen all around | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found the route finding tricky, lots of lichen all around |
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neuromancer | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: FRCC description is way off; the dark groove is to be ignored - go past until you reach a pinnacle then start climbing upwards before traversing back right. | βeta? | |
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βeta: FRCC description is way off; the dark groove is to be ignored - go past until you reach a pinnacle then start climbing upwards before traversing back right. |
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Lakesben | 20 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Led P2 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led P2 |
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DavidR | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Please note that there's a large loose block at the very top of the 2nd pitch of Mendes. It's basically the block folk are likely to use as a belay as there are cracks around it, but the whole thing showed signs of movement earlier. Please take extra care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Please note that there's a large loose block at the very top of the 2nd pitch of Mendes. It's basically the block folk are likely to use as a belay as there are cracks around it, but the whole thing showed signs of movement earlier. Please take extra care. |
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Rog Wilko | 4 Sep, 2010 |
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βeta: Though I've done this route on several occasions it never fails to give me a buzz. Holds are so good it's not really harder than 4b. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together which saves using the very inconvenient stance and improves the route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Though I've done this route on several occasions it never fails to give me a buzz. Holds are so good it's not really harder than 4b. Ran pitches 1 & 2 together which saves using the very inconvenient stance and improves the route. |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(The Napes)