Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
The best line on the wall and a total pump-fest. Start near the centre of the wall at the large flake. Climb up to a bolt on the left and then another on the right. Move back left to get stood in the 'Chipadeedoodah' hold. Layback strenuously to gain a jug/small ledge, then continue up the groove/small corner, passing a number of bolts to reach a small roof. Boldly climb the 6m run-out to the next bolt, then move right into a groove and summon up all your reserves for the final headwall! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
one of the best routes on slate, a must for every slatehead.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Slate 2018/2019 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , North Wales To Do List
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))